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理性至上的时尚新贵:Trina Turk

理性至上的时尚新贵:Trina Turk

《财富》 2013-03-01
创立服装品牌Trina Turk时,设计师特里娜•特克并没有一个商业规划,但却在激烈的市场竞争中站稳了脚跟,还在纽约时装周举行了首场发布会。近日她接受《财富》采访,畅谈了没有商业规划、直接创立服装品牌的利与弊。

    2月10日,时装设计师特里娜•特克在纽约时装周(New York Fashion Week)举办了首场发布秀。她说,考虑到自己的服装品牌是在1995年创立的,从品牌创立到举办发布秀,中间隔着相对较长的时间。但是这对特克来说恰到好处,她并不急着进军时装周。

    特克把加州人特有的冷静态度带到了时装界。她说自己所有的设计灵感都来自黄金州。经过17年的打拼,她不仅在美国各地开设了时装店,还把服装卖给了不计其数的批发商。特克还在扩张自己的品牌,使公司的经营范围横跨从寝具到iPhone保护套的多个品类。但这并不意味着她会为了筹备时装周而开夜车,或者将员工逼得太紧。

    特克在接受《财富》采访时畅谈了没有商业规划、直接创立服装品牌的利与弊,以及如何在竟争惨烈的行业中保持沉稳。

    问:你的名字是整个品牌的主心骨。你的时尚理念是什么?

    答:我走到这一步并不是为了做新一代先锋时尚设计师。我关心的是女性和她们在生活中的切实需求,因为我自己也是女性。我觉得好看的、讨人喜欢的东西并不一定非得是那种5,000美元的奢侈品。

    抱着这样的理念,你如何物色富有创意的设计师?

    这是一个渐进的过程。就在八年前,所有的事情都还是我一个人包揽,不管是画图还是设计。我慢慢组建起自己的设计团队,让所有的成员都知道,我并不是那么喜欢浮夸的设计,也不喜欢褶皱和蝴蝶结。久而久之,他们领悟了这样的美学思想。

    跟任何一位设计师开始合作,都势必要经历一个磨合的过程。我还没有遇到过哪个设计师从一开始合作就能完全了解你的理念。或许有这样的人,只不过我还没有找到。

    你也给别的公司效力过。以前为别的设计师工作,现在创立了自己的品牌,你如何转换自己的角色?

    老实说,我没有做任何商业规划就直接放手去干了。而且我也不知道自己何去何从。原本存了一小笔钱可供急用。那时,我每天都得工作很长时间,而且是一个人单干。我经常开车,载着布匹四处转悠,然后把它们卸下来。这种事情我再也做不来了,真的是太疯狂了。

    Fashion designer Trina Turk held her first show at New York Fashion Week on February 10. Given that she launched her own clothing line in 1995, that's a relatively long time without having a show at the event, she says. But that's just as well for Turk. She didn't feel the need to jump into that pool so quickly.

    Turk brings a California-cool attitude to fashion. All her designs are inspired by the Golden State, she claims. After 17 years, she has boutiques all over the country and also sells her clothing to numerous wholesalers. Turk is also expanding her brand to encompass everything from bedding to iPhone cases. But that doesn't mean that she's going to pull an all-nighter at Fashion Week or create a bummer of a work environment.

    Turk talks to Fortune about the pros and cons of launching a line without a business plan and how to stay low-drama in a cutthroat industry.

    Q: Your name is the backbone of the whole brand. What is your fashion philosophy?

    A:I'm not really here to be the next avant-garde fashion designer. I'm thinking about women and their practical concerns in their lives, because that's who I am. I think that something can be beautiful and flattering without being $5,000.

    How do you get creative designer-types on board with that?

    It's been this evolution. Up until eight years ago, I sketched and designed every single thing myself. And I slowly built a design team that understands that I don't really like fussy; I don't like little ruffles and bows. Over time, they learned the aesthetic.

    When you first start off with any designer, there's a learning curve. I've yet to have anybody start and immediately understand what we're trying to do here. Maybe that person is out there, but I haven't found them yet.

    And you've been there. How did you switch from working for other designers to starting your own line?

    You know, honestly, I never wrote a business plan. I just started. And I had no idea what I was getting myself into. I had a small amount of money from my own savings. I worked really long days, and it was just me. I was driving around with rolls of fabric in my car and dropping them off. I could never do it again, it was incredibly insane.

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