社交媒体和自拍在重塑整容行业

去年科勒•卡戴珊曾对《Glamour》杂志表示：“我希望人们把填充剂视为更接近于化妆品的东西。我可以做面部轮廓整形……我做了丰唇术，而且没有人真的认为这是疯狂的举动。”

卡戴珊此言绝非空穴来风（嗯，这样说还不够直截了当——她接受《Glamour》杂志采访的身份是Kybella代言人，这种颌下脂肪治疗药物已经通过美国食品药品监督管理局（FDA）审批）。但抛开赞助内容不谈，她的观点显然得到了许多千禧一代的认同。同时，这已经对整容行业产生了很大冲击。

美国整形美容外科学会的数据显示，2000-2016年整容手术的数量下降了6%，而微创整形手术的数量猛增了180%。

Kybella就属于后者。它由艾尔健生产，2015年获得FDA批准，其有效成分脱氧胆酸在人体中发挥着溶解脂肪的作用。目前这种注射液仅用于颌下，宣传广告也将其称为神奇的双下巴终结者。但艾尔健打算把它用到面部以外的其他地方。据美国报纸《Star Tribune》报道，该公司正在人体的其他部分测试Kybella，包括“膝盖赘肉”。

目前，对于任何可能引起麻烦的新趋势，人们立即会在社交媒体上予以批评。相对迅速的新整容手术的兴起也不例外。整容医生亚当•洛克对《Star Tribune》表示：“自拍文化是采用Kybella等药物进行整容手术的巨大推动力之一。”

不过，在这个问题上洛克说的也许有道理。“以前我们什么时候给自己拍过这么多照片？”他还说：“人们发现了让自己更好看的角度，也不断地想起那些困扰他们的缺陷……大家会看到越来越多的年轻人接受这样的手术。”

为一种通过审批而且能增强信心、提高生活质量的手术正名，卡戴珊的种种努力都是出于好意（尽管她这样做是有报酬的）。但这并不意味着我们应该像她呼吁的那样把所有整形填充物都“视为化妆品”。和整容手术相比，Kybella的价格也许较低，风险也较小，但这并不是说它便宜或者没有副作用（使用Kybella的普通手术费用超过5000美元，而且有可能造成长期神经损伤，尽管这种情况较为罕见）。和慵懒猫眼妆不同，Kybella的作用不可逆转。

还是在《Glamour》的这次采访中，卡戴珊后来无意间透露了一次填充物整形失败的经历：“我的朋友说的大概是‘你必须这样做，这没什么大不了的’等等，敢情我属于有不良反应的那1%，结果不得不把它全部溶解掉。”

这没有生命危险，但也不怎么像化妆品。（财富中文网）

译者：Charlie

审稿：夏林

“I wish injectables were treated more like makeup,” Khloe Kardashian told Glamour last year. “I'm allowed to contour my face...I'm overdrawing my lips, and nobody really says that's crazy.”

Kardashian didn’t make this pronouncement in a vacuum. (Ok, that’s an understatement—she spoke to Glamour as a spokesperson for Kybella, an FDA-approved injectable for getting rid of unwanted chin fat.) But #sponcon aside, the sentiment is clearly shared by many of her fellow millennials. And it’s already having major implications for the cosmetic industry.

From 2000 to 2016, the number of cosmetic surgical procedures fell by 6%, while cosmetic minimally invasive procedures rose a whopping 180%, according to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons.

Kybella falls into the later category. Made by Allergan and approved by the FDA in 2015, the treatment is a synthetic version of deoxycholic acid, which the body uses to break down fat. For now, the liquid is exclusively injected under the jaw—it’s marketed as a miracle double-chin buster. But Allergan's ambitions for the drug extend beyond the face. According to the Star Tribune, the company is testing Kybella in other areas of the body, including the “fat above the knees.”

By this point, the jerk reaction to any new and potentially troubling trend is to blame it on social media. The rise of new, relatively quick cosmetic procedures is no exception. “Selfie culture is a huge driver for procedures like Kybella,” Adam Lokeh, a plastic surgeon, told the Star Tribune.

In this instance, however, the the man might have a point. “When in history have we taken so many photos of ourselves?” he continued. “People recognize the angles they look better in and they’re constantly reminded of the flaws that bother them…you’ll start seeing more and more young people getting treatments like this.”

Kardashian's overall attempt to destigmatize a vetted procedure that can improve confidence and quality of life is well-intentioned (even if she was paid to do it). But that doesn't mean we should treat all injectables “like makeup,” as she urges. Kybella might be more affordable and less risky than surgical cosmetic options, but that doesn’t mean it’s cheap or side-effect free (a standard course of treatment runs costs more than $5,000 and, while rare, can lead to long-term nerve damage.) Unlike a sloppy cat-eye, the effects aren't reversible.

Later on in that same Glamour interview, Kardashian casually recounts a filler treatment gone wrong: “My friend was like, ‘You have to, it's not a big deal.’ And so, of course, I was the 1 percent who didn't react well to it, so I had to dissolve it all.”

Not life-threatening—but not much like makeup, either.