这家快餐连锁红遍全世界，成功的原因不只是那款网红汉堡

Shake Shack获得巨大成功的关键之一便是其菜单和食物的一致性，而这个汉堡店也从纽约市麦迪逊广场的一个小摊发展成了遍布十几个国家，拥有超过250家店面的国际连锁品牌。

但Shake Shack在新市场获得成功的另一大关键因素在于，该品牌知道如何迎合当地人的需求。

Shake Shack的烹饪总监马克·罗萨迪经常在全球旅行，为打造新的菜品进行调研。当Shake Shack准备进入新市场时，罗萨迪都会首先体验一下当地的高档餐饮，或至少光顾城市里那些美食爱好者常去的餐厅，以便在当地市场为Shake Shack的菜单创新寻找灵感。

罗萨迪说：“我的主要工作就是通过各种方式，将Shack或那个城市与那里已有的美食文化连接起来。还有一部分工作是确保这些城市或国家Shack汉堡的味道与众所周知的纽约市Shack汉堡如出一辙。”

One of the keys to Shake Shack’s supernova success has been the consistency of its menu and food as the burger joint scaled from a single stand in New York City’s Madison Square Park to an international chain with over 250 locations in more than a dozen countries.

But another key to Shake Shack’s success in those new markets is knowing how to read the room and catering to what the locals want.

Shake Shack’s culinary director, Mark Rosati, travels the world routinely, researching flavors for creating new menu items. When Shake Shack prepares to enter a new market, Rosati first eats at many of the local fine-dining—or at least foodie-minded—restaurants in town, seeking inspiration for a new spin on the Shake Shack menu in that market.

“What I try to do primarily is find ways of connecting that Shack or that city with the culinary culture that’s already there,” says Rosati. “Part of the job is to make sure that the burger as people know from the New York City area is the same in those cities or countries.”

在今年的扩张之旅中，Shake Shack近期在马尼拉、新加坡和墨西哥城新开了多家店面。在马尼拉，你可以品尝到当地独有的柑橘柠檬酸橙汽水；在新加坡，不妨试试椰子香兰叶饮料，它据称是备受当地时髦人士追捧的饮品；在墨西哥城，你也可以来一份concrete（该店对“混合类加厚软质奶油冰淇淋”的称谓），口味包括糖制柠檬、香料曲奇和当地的香肉果（该甜点出自墨西哥城热门景点罗塞塔的艾琳娜·雷加达斯之手）

罗塞蒂说：“我会以这种方式来尝试了解当地的餐饮格局：品尝街头小吃和高档餐饮，以及两者之间的美食，例如小烘培店，包括夫妻店在内的经典老店，以了解年轻人都喜欢吃什么。通过此举，我开始了解自己在那所城市所应扮演的角色。每到一个新地方，我们基本上都会这么做。”

罗萨迪于2007年加入Shake Shack，当时Shake Shack还只是麦迪逊广场的一个独立门店。如今，该门店依然排着长队，满是当地居民和员工以及游客。他亲眼见证了公司员工数量在短时间内出现了大幅增长，然而，他回归了“一致性”这个理念，也借此让Shake Shack避免了让很多小公司遭受重大打击的成长之痛。这种一致性涵盖每个店面和办公室使用的培训材料，以及每日在准备食物时所采用的基本食材。

罗萨迪说：“我们有着一支非常庞大的培训团队和供应链团队。他们负责所有的手续，找供应商，制定物品目录，并搜集整理所有的一些细节信息，这样，新开店面就会知道上哪订巧克力，以及如何送达。”

Among Shake Shack’s most recent expansions this year were new locations in Manila, Singapore, and Mexico City. In Manila, you can pick up a calamansi limeade you won’t be able to find anywhere else; in Singapore, look for a coconut-and-pandan-leaf beverage that was reportedly a hit with local tastemakers; and in Mexico City, you can order a concrete (the chain’s term for dense frozen custard with mix-ins) with flavors of candied lemon, spice cookies, and local mamey fruit—a dessert developed by Elena Reygadas of the CDMX hotspot Rosetta.

“That’s how I start to kind of understand their dining scene: Try street food to the fine dining and everything in between—little bakeries, the classic old ones like mom-and-pop shops—to see what the young kids are doing,” Rosati says. “And through that I start to see what my own identity would be like in that city. We’ve done this pretty much everywhere we’ve gone.”

Rosati joined Shake Shack in 2007 in the days of the solo location at Madison Square Park, which still sees lines filled with local residents and workers as well as tourists alike. He’s seen the company’s employee base scale astronomically and simultaneously, but he goes back to the theme of consistency as to why Shake Shack has been able to avoid many of the growing pains experienced by small companies that hit it big. That consistency ranges from the same training materials used at every location and office to the same basic ingredients needed to put out food each day.

“We have a very large training team and a very large supply-chain team,” Rosati says. “They are the ones that do all that paperwork, set up all the vendors, catalog all the items, and put together little information packets so the opening location may know where to order that chocolate from and how it comes.”

当强调Shack汉堡和薯条（Shake Shack的主打产品）应该（因此，需要）在所有地方保持统一口味时，罗萨迪表示，菜单仍有把玩和调整的空间，以反映每个新城市当地的烹饪文化。Shake Shack在这一方面的做法是通过与当地大厨和餐馆合作开发汉堡和奶昔。为了保持公司的纽约风格，Shake Shack最初开展的合作数量并不多，产品包括与曼哈顿备受欢迎的Levain Bakery共同制作的巧克力屑曲奇。

除了这三个领域之外，Shake Shack一直在与手工艺品牌以及知名大厨合作，例如犹他州的手工艺巧克力制作商Ritual Chocolate，以及米其林指南评定过的香港大班楼所有者——神秘的叶一南。

罗萨迪在谈论与厨师接洽合作项目时说：“我的整体行事方式就是，我希望给人一种自然演进式的感受。我一直很喜欢接触那些我认识的人，这样双方的合作关系就会更加友好。我们从来不主动与陌生人联系。”

罗萨迪是在一位朋友的推荐下去了叶一南的餐厅，他后来称这是他品尝过的最好的粤菜。罗萨迪随后联系了叶一南，与他碰了面。叶一南也给予了热情的回应，但他对这家美国休闲快餐连锁没有多少兴趣。

While stressing that the Shack Burger and fries—Shake Shack staples—are expected to (and therefore, need to) taste the same everywhere, Rosati adds that there is still room to play with and tweak the menu to reflect the local culinary community in each new city. One way Shake Shack has gone about this is through burger and milkshake collaborations with local chefs and restaurants. True to the company’s New York City heritage, Shake Shack’s first few collaborations included a chocolate chip cookie with Manhattan’s beloved Levain Bakery.

Beyond the tristate area, Shake Shack has been working with artisanal brands like craft chocolate maker Ritual Chocolate in Utah and acclaimed chefs such as Danny Yip, the elusive owner behind Hong Kong’s Michelin Guide–reviewed The Chairman restaurant.

“The whole way of going about it, I want it to feel organic,” Rosati says about reaching out to chefs for collaborative projects. “I always like to approach people I know so it’s more of a friendly way of working together. We’ve never cold-called anyone.”

Rosati came across Yip’s food through a recommendation by a friend, and after declaring it the best Cantonese cuisine he had ever sampled, Rosati reached out to Yip for a meeting. Yip replied cordially, but he wasn’t entirely interested in the American fast-casual chain.

罗萨迪与叶一南见面时向他介绍了有关制作定制Shake Shack汉堡的事情，他说：“我们坐了下来，我向他介绍了‘公司的整体风格，以及公司尝试在当地经营的方式，而且就像我说的那样：这就是我们在这个城市所用的原料与烘培食品，其他的一些原材料在全球可能更加知名。’叶一南说：‘不过，我不会做这种事情。我在几年前曾与一家餐厅合作过，我今年还会与另一家合作，是日本一家叫Den的餐厅，其大厨Zaiyu是我的朋友。’”

非常凑巧的是，3年前，也就是庆祝公司进驻东京首周年庆之前，Shake Shack曾与Zaiyu合作开发了一款汉堡。不用说，此次对话从这里得以延续，而这两位最终合作推出了一款味道鲜美的限量版Shack汉堡，其中添加了四川辣椒、豆豉酱以及烤牛舌薄片，再放入中国五香粉小火熬制。

罗萨迪说：“我不希望给叶一南一种不自在的感觉，而且给予他充分的自主权。每次与大厨合作，我几乎都会给他们创造这种环境。我并不希望给他们设定条条框框。我希望他们能够发挥自己的想象力。我的方式是，提供一个大致的方向，然后告诉他们：‘如果你使用我们的汉堡和我们的小圆面包，你还想再添加点什么？我们甚至还可以讨论制作完全不同的汉堡，而且可能是不同的小圆面包。”

“We sat down and I told him, ‘Our whole ethos and how we try to work locally and like I said: Here are the ingredients and bakeries we’re using in your city and also some other ones that might be a little more high profile around the world,’” Rosati says of sitting down with Yip to pitch him about working on a custom Shake Shack burger. “And he goes, ‘Well, again, I don’t do this sort of thing. I worked with one restaurant a few years ago, and I’m actually working with one this year. It’s a restaurant in Japan called Den. The chef, Zaiyu, is a friend.’”

It just so happens Shake Shack had done a burger with Zaiyu three years prior to celebrate the company’s first anniversary in Tokyo. Suffice it to say, the conversation picked up from there, and the pairing ended up in a limited-edition, umami-packed Shack burger featuring Szechuan pepper, a fermented black bean sauce, and a thinly sliced and griddled ox tongue, slow braised in a Chinese five-spice.

“I wanted him to feel comfortable, and I gave him complete carte blanche,” Rosati says. “And anytime I work with a chef, I kind of want that to happen. I don’t want them to feel like they have to fit in a box. I want them to dream. And the way I do that is kind of give a little bit of guardrails and say, ‘You know, if you use our burger and our bun, whatever else you want to do. Hell, we can even maybe talk about a different burger and maybe a different bun.’”

其中一些合作的菜品也进入了美国市场，例如起源于日本的黑芝麻奶昔。在纽约市，Shake Shack每天的销售量达到了700多套。（罗萨迪称，这款奶昔是联合创始人丹尼·梅尔和首席执行官兰迪·贾鲁提的最爱。）

当然，并非所有的实验都以成功告终。

例如，Shake Shack在进驻日本数年前便推出了一款类似的黑芝麻奶昔，罗萨迪曾开玩笑说此款产品可能有点“超前”。这款奶昔融合了黑芝麻与柑橘类水果（橘子味、柠檬味和酸橙味），公司团队将其称为“灰色物质”，当时人们认为这款奶昔很有意思，也很酷，但其销量不如其继任者。

罗萨迪说：“我认为眼下存在一些追捧因素，而且人们对于尝试新鲜事物感到好奇。如果这款饮品还十分上相，我想它会更加受到人们的青睐：‘我得尝一下，并拍下这一时刻。’”“灰色物质”很有可能还不够上相。

Some of those collaborations have come home—namely a black sesame milkshake that originated in Japan. When it came to New York, Shake Shack sold more than 700 units in one day. (Rosati says that shake is a favorite of cofounder Danny Meyer and CEO Randy Garutti.)

Of course, not all experiments turn out successful results.

For one, Shake Shack had actually released a similar black sesame milkshake years prior to opening in Japan, which Rosati jokes might have been “a little ahead of its time.” Incorporating black sesame and citrus (orange zest, lemon zest, and lime zest), the team called it “Grey Matter,” which they thought was kind of fun and cool—but it didn’t sell as many units as its successor.

“I think there is a little bit of excitement, and people are curious to try something new,” Rosati says. “If it’s photogenic, too, I think that’s really going to make it even that much more like, ‘I need to do this and film that moment.’” Most likely, Grey Matter wasn’t all that photogenic.

另一个教训来自于迪拜。罗萨迪和他的团队发现，果汁吧在当地非常流行，因此他们起草了一份果汁饮品单，按照日期更换的奶昔单以及无酒精鸡尾酒。值得一提的是，Shake Shack当地顾问对于向新受众推出Shake Shack至关重要。在这一案例中，正是由于当地的策划人的帮助，这支美国团队可能才得以规避一个昂贵的错误。

罗萨迪回忆道：“他对我说：‘太棒了，你做的这个菜单太好了。我喜欢果汁，也喜欢这种按日期更换的方式。但是我们并不需要。例如，我们知道日期，我们会按照日期制作甜点、可口的菜肴。我们并没有经营果汁。如果我们这么做，我们就没法做汉堡。我们也不知道该如何经营果汁。奶昔和薯条才是你的强项，也是我们为什么希望你来这的原因。在进入这个市场之后发挥自身的强项就行了。人们会来光顾的，因为这些真的都是好东西。当地并不了解这种食品，也没法制作，但你们却是这方面的专家。’”

罗萨迪说，就是在当时，他头脑中的一盏灯熄灭了，意味着他过分注重于当地让他感兴趣的一些事情。与此同时，这个兴奋点偏离了Shake Shack的核心使命。罗萨迪说：“可能我们为迪拜设计的菜单有点过于理想化，但我们依然在按照日期更换菜品，只是更加谨慎了一些。我们还得意识到，我们是一家流淌着美国血液的现代化路边汉堡店。”（财富中文网）

译者：冯丰

审校：夏林

Another learning experience took place in Dubai. Rosati and his team observed that juice bars are very popular in the region, so they set about drafting a menu of juices, date-based shakes, and mocktails. It should be noted here that Shake Shack’s local consultants are critical to introducing Shake Shack to a new audience. In this case, the local fixer possibly helped the U.S.-based team avert an expensive mistake.

“He says to me, ‘This is great, man. This menu you created is great. I love the juices, I love the dates. But we don’t need this. Like, we know dates. We can make amazing pastries, savory items with dates. We have this whole juice thing down. We do this. We can’t make burgers. We don’t know how to do that. The milkshakes and fries, like that’s what you guys do and that’s probably why we want you to be here. Just come in, be yourself. People are going to come because this is really good stuff. We don’t know this stuff. We can’t do this, and you guys are the best,’” Rosati recalls.

It was at that point, Rosati says, that a light went off in his mind, denoting he was getting caught up in the local scenes because he found them exciting. At the same time, that excitement deviated from Shake Shack’s core mission. “Maybe that menu for Dubai was a little ambitious, but we still do stuff with dates. It’s just a little more restrained,” Rosati says. “We also had to realize that we are an American-inspired modern-day roadside burger stand.”