2017年早餐新时尚,菠萝蜜将大行其道
转基因食品、彩虹色食物、整碗谷物和高咖啡因含量的饮料是2016年早餐的几大标志性趋势。2016年过后,这些还会不会流行,尚未可知,但不管怎样,美国人的早餐还会不断花样翻新。2017年,早餐的品种也许更加丰富。 作为从早到晚(甚至在紧张的梦里)都在考虑早餐的一批人,我们对于2017年在美国的菜单或杂货店里将要出现的食品有着一些看法、希望或担忧。以下是我们对于早餐食物趋势的预测。 菠萝蜜将走上千家万户的餐桌 每个小时,我都会在Pinterest上收到某人关于食物趋势的电子邮件(噢,看起来像是每隔一天,只有13封邮件,布伦纳,我不是针对你,我知道你只是在完成自己的工作)。菠萝蜜在2017年的趋势列表中位列第一,得到了+420%的得分,也就是说Pinterest的用户会在1月初疯狂上传菠萝蜜的图片。邮件表示:“这种水果将会成为你最喜欢的新的肉类替代品。没错,我们说的是水果。菠萝蜜的口感和清淡的味道让它成为了健康的肉类替代品。推荐的做法包括用它取代三明治和墨西哥烤玉米片里的‘猪肉’。” 所以我认为我会选择菠萝蜜,伙计们。我们的国家成为了不注重口味、食用代餐的地狱,所有的食品都被武器化,儿童只能吃青年沙皇巴伦允许他们吃的东西,经历了这样的一年后,相对于制造军用配餐的家乐氏(Kelloggs)、成为叛乱聚集地的星巴克(Starbucks)和利用调味料来洗脑的Penzeys,餐桌上的菠萝蜜可能会给我们带来更愉快的未来。——网站主管赖安·格里姆 制作早餐的过程展示变得流行 今年,许多快速休闲餐饮和快餐连锁店都利用了“剧院”的概念。在Bojangles’,你可能会观赏到饼干制作表演,而在Dunkin Donuts则是咖啡制作表演。基本的理念就是,人们想要看到食物制作的过程,尤其是那种有趣的重复工作,而大规模的烘焙正属于此类。(你看过制作牛角面包的过程吗?很有治愈效果。)所以我预测会有更多餐厅采用这种理念——这可能回到了几十年前餐厅桌边表演的年代,或者只是给厨房多开了几面玻璃墙。——文化编辑玛格丽特·伊比 谷物将继续风靡 鉴于整碗谷物在早餐上爆炸式的流行,我预测2017年这种趋势还将继续下去,尤其是变得更辣、更有味道。我在考虑生鸡蛋浇饭、粥和燕麦片配上黑胡椒和辣椒酱的吃法,这也是我们独特的凯特·金斯曼强烈推荐的。这份预测可能更多是一种希望——近来我成为了燕麦片的拥趸,迫不及待想要试验之前25年里未曾试验过的吃法——不过世界上其他地区很早以前就认识到了这一点,美国人的选择显然已经晚了一步。——助理文化编辑凯特·威尔士 沙门氏菌等食品安全隐患仍在 很抱歉要在这次早餐的盛会中唱反调,不过我很担心,伙计们,我很担心。2010年,沙门氏菌的爆发导致了5.5亿枚鸡蛋的召回,美国至少2,000人患病,相关规定也变得十分严格。(事实证明这完全是一次幕后交易所致。爱荷华州蛋场的员工给卫生检查员300美元让他走个过场。你真的可以看看这篇报道,尽管你可能再也吃不到杂货店卖的鸡蛋了。)即将上台的政权如果不会过分的敌视,至少也不太重视对食品行业进行监管的重要性。因此我努力让自己不要过分妄想鸡蛋(以及多叶蔬菜、家禽、猪肉和奶制品)的安全问题。不过这肯定不会损害我与当地农民的亲密关系,而且他们都是很棒的人。——高级饮食编辑凯特·金斯曼 希望早餐供应冰淇淋来让头脑冷静 我对2017年的早餐期望是让餐厅在凌晨供应冰淇淋,使它成为制式早餐的一部分并成为时尚。因为现在的趋势就是这样,一些研究表明,早餐吃冰淇淋对大脑有好处(尽管我很怀疑这点),甚至每年2月的第一个星期六还是“早餐吃冰淇淋日”(我认为这简直傻透了)。我们在早餐或是一些节日吃冰淇淋,并不是因为“它会让你更聪明”,而是因为它比酸奶好吃得多。——助理饮食编辑特蕾莎·萨夫加 素食早餐将涌现 每隔一个月,我就会决定不吃任何动物产品,借此拯救自己和环境。随后,我就会想起自己对培根、鸡蛋、乳酪三明治的热爱。不过2016年,在麦当劳(McDonald)烟肉蛋汉堡等产品的启发下,我第一次尝试了素培根、素鸡蛋和素乳酪三明治,它们的味道和口感堪比原版的动物产品。厨师和顾客最终开始学着接受素食和植物产品,只需要看看Dirt Candy外的长队和By Chloe的迅速扩张就知道了。实际上,Tyson Foods等大公司已经开始追求可使用的素食早餐,他们纷纷斥资研发更多肉类的替代品。而他们的研发也得到了回报。在Momofuku Nishi的菜单上,已经有了带血丝的仿照的植物“肉”,天哪。所以2017年可能会是素食早餐不再糟糕,素“肉”也不止代表豆制品的一年。——助理编辑玛克辛·比由德 煎饼会得到人们的喜爱 煎饼可能是最失宠的早餐之一。当然,很多周末的早晨,人们都疲惫不堪,但我认为煎饼还是有潜力的。今年,我预测——不,我希望——疗愈食物的需求量将达到新的高度,煎饼最终得到应得的认可。在纽约,我们看到了专门售卖燕麦片、饼干、土豆甚至牛油果餐品的店面,为什么煎饼不可以?我希望在美国看到一家专门经营蓬松的日本煎饼的店。我们现在有了煎饼的emoji表情,所以我认为我的期望是有一定依据的。——助理战略师莫妮卡·伯顿 早餐会变得更健康更适度 尽管在可预知的未来,我们似乎有许多沮丧和忧伤的消息。但我并不认为2017年我们会沉迷于不健康的食品中。我认为,明年会让很多人清醒过来,不过这并不意味着屈服于转基因食品——对我来说,那更多是一种“辉煌时刻”类型的放纵。我们会适量饮用酸奶,而不是大吃里面充满熏肉,类固醇很多的怪物甜甜圈。明年,人们会对周遭世界有更明智的认识,其中很重要的一点就是会更好地对待自己。毕竟,我们在2016年已经承受了足够多持续几十年的自我折磨。——供稿作者布莱恩·欧康纳 (财富中文网) 作者:Extra Crispy员工 译者:严匡正 |
Frankenfoods, rainbow hues, grain bowls, and hyper-caffeinated drinks were a few of the hallmarks (and some would say nadir) of breakfast food trends in 2016. It remains to be seen which of those will make it past the last hangover brunch of the year, but it’s not like breakfast is gonna grind to a halt after the ball drops. In 2017, we may need morning sustenance more than ever for, you know, reasons. As a crew of people who think about breakfast morning, noon, and night (and sometimes during stress dreams), we’ve got a few feelings on what we believe—or hope or dread—we’ll be seeing on menus and in grocery stores across the country in 2017. Here are our breakfast food trend predictions. Jackfruit on every table I get an email from someone at Pinterest about food trends every hour of my life (OK it’s more like every other day, and there have only been 13 ever, and Brenna, nothing against you, I know you’re just doing your job). Jackfruit is at the top of their 2017 trends list. It got a score of +420%, meaning pinners will be pinning jackfruit pins like mad starting in January. “This fruit will be your new favorite meat substitute,” the email claims. “Yes, we said fruit. The texture and mild taste of jackfruit make it a healthy stand-in for meat. Top recipes include pulled ‘pork’ sandwiches and nachos.” So I guess I’m going with jackfruit, folks. After the year we’ve had, a jackfruit on every table is a much more palatable future than, say, Kelloggs supplying armed rebels with MREs, Starbucks locations becoming hubs for the uprising, and Penzeys using spices for mind control after our country has turned into a post-flavor, Soylent-fueled hellscape where all food has become weaponized and children can only eat whatever Youth Czar Barron lets them eat. —Ryan Grim, Site Director Breakfast showmanship This year has seen a lot of fast casual and fast food chains embrace the idea of a “theater.” At Bojangles’, you might be treated to biscuit theater, at Dunkin Donuts, coffee theater. The basic idea is that people like watching their food being made, particularly when it’s the kind of mesmerizing, repetitive work that mass-baking can be. (Have you seen croissants beings made? It’s so soothing.) So my prediction is that there are going to be more places that embrace the theater—perhaps a return to the kind of tableside showmanship of restaurants decades ago, or just more windows into kitchens in general. —Margaret Eby, Culture Editor Grains a-go-go With the veritable explosion of grain bowls for breakfast, I predict that 2017 will see a deluge of riffs on the trend, specifically in the hot and savory department. I’m thinking of things like tamago gohan, congee, and oatmeal topped with black pepper and hot sauce, as our inimitable Kat Kinsman strongly recommends. It’s possible that this prediction is more a hope—as a recent oatmeal convert, I’m eager to try out all the ways I’ve foregone its consumption for 25 years—but it seems an adoption of what the rest of the world seems to have figured out long ago is absolutely overdue. —Kate Welsh, Assistant Culture Editor Salmonella surprise Yeah, sorry to be the pooper at this breakfast party, but I worry, folks. I worry. Back in 2010, a salmonella outbreak triggered the recall of 550 million eggs and sickened at least 2,000 people across the US, and that was with some pretty tight federal regulations in place. (There turned out to be a whole clandestine deal where employees of an Iowa egg farm tried to offer a health inspector $300 to look the other way and really, you should just read about it—though you may never eat a grocery store egg again.) With the incoming presidential regime being if not overtly hostile, at least dismissive of the importance of federal oversight of the food industry, I’m trying not to get too overly paranoid about the safety of my eggs (and leafy vegetables, and poultry, and pork, and dairy), but it sure isn’t hurting to make closer friendships with my local farmers. Plus they're just hella cool people. —Kat Kinsman, Senior Food and Drinks Editor Brain freeze in the a.m. My breakfast hope and dream for 2017 is that restaurants start serving ice cream in the wee hours of the morning to normalize the darn thing—and make it trendy, because that’s what happens nowadays, right? Some studies say eating ice cream for breakfast is good for your brain (even though I highly doubt that), and there’s even a Eat Ice Cream for Breakfast Day celebrated on the first Saturday of February every year (which I find extremely silly). We shouldn’t be eating ice cream for breakfast just because “it makes you smarter” or some holiday says you should. We should all be eating ice cream for breakfast because it’s a much more delicious alternative to yogurt. —Teresa Sabga, Assistant Food & Drink Editor Plant-based plates Every couple of months, I decide it’s time for me to cut all animal products out of my diet to save myself and the environment. Then I remember that I love bacon, egg, and cheese sandwiches. But 2016 was the first year that I tasted a vegan bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich—inspired by a McDonald’s Egg McMuffin, of all things—that actually rivaled the taste and texture of the animal-packed original. Chefs, and customers, are finally learning to embrace vegan and plant-based foods; just look at the lines out the door at Dirt Candy and the rapid expansion of By Chloe. Actually edible vegan breakfast is a pursuit made all the easier by investments from major companies like Tyson Foods in creating more meat alternatives. And the research and development is paying off. There’s a fake, vegan “meat” that bleeds on the menu at Momofuku Nishi, for goodness sake. So may 2017 be the year that vegan breakfast finally, finally doesn’t suck, and vegan “meat” doesn’t just mean tofu. —Maxine Builder, Associate Editor Pancake pop-ups Pancakes may be the most underappreciated breakfast food there is. Sure, they’re still regularly whipped up at home on weekend mornings, but I think they have potential. This year, a year in which comfort foods are sure to be more needed than ever, my prediction—nay, request—is that pancakes finally get their due. In New York, we’ve seen oatmeal, biscuits, potatoes, and even avocados get the single-dish concept shop treatment, so why not pancakes? I would especially like to see a pop-up featuring solely these fluffy Japanese pancakes stateside. We have a pancake emoji now, so I think there’s some legitimate hope. —Monica Burton, Assistant Strategist Kinder, gentler breakfast Despite all of the frustrating, saddening news that we seem to be stuck with for the foreseeable future, I don’t think we’re going to drown ourselves in unhealthy food in 2017. I think next year’s going to be a sobering one for many people. But I don’t think that’s going to yield more frankenfood mashups—to me, that’s more of a “time of splendor” kind of indulgence. We’re going to wake up with humble cups of yogurt, rather than bacon-infused, steroid-enhanced monster doughnuts. Next year, people are going to get smarter about the world around them. A big part of that means treating themselves better, too. After all, we’ve inflicted enough self-torture in 2016 to last for decades. —Brian O’Connor, Contributing Writer |