探索加州纳帕谷的葡萄酒之乡

秋天是纳帕谷收获的季节，也是探访美国顶尖葡萄酒产区的最佳时期。虽然去年的山火破坏了部分山谷区，但重建工作相当迅速，还新开了一系列新酒庄。以位于加州圣赫勒那的Ink House为例，这是一家超级奢华，有四间客房的精品酒店。建筑为殖民地风格，从宽敞的全景阳台可一览葡萄园和远处连绵起伏的山色。内部则非常现代（装有黄铜藤蔓枝形吊灯），营造出温馨的居家氛围。

Autumn ushers Napa Valley into harvest season, one of the best times to visit the nation’s premier wine region. Though last year’s wildfires ravaged parts of the California valley, rebuilding has been quick, and there have been a spate of new openings, like the Ink House, an ultra-exclusive, four-room boutique hotel in St. Helena. The colonial-style mansion’s wide, wraparound veranda offers a vista of vineyards and the rolling hills beyond; inside, modern accents (a chandelier of brass vines) spice up the homey atmosphere.

入住Ink House的好处之一是，可专享酒店主厨布莱恩·伍利的各项服务，他做的炒鸡蛋造型奇特堪称一绝，还向来客倾囊相授游玩秘笈。以下是他的建议。

最佳新开餐厅：位于圣赫勒那的休闲餐厅Charter Oak非常棒，创办人为米其林三星级厨师克里斯托弗·库斯托和Meadowood的纳撒尼尔·多恩。不管是就餐氛围、食物、鸡尾酒课程，还是葡萄酒课程，一切都提现了顶尖餐厅水准。纳帕市中心有墨西哥餐厅Gran Eléctrica（老店位于纽约布鲁克林）。还有一家超级棒的酒吧，提供各种龙舌兰酒和梅斯卡。在纳帕谷享受美食是一种全新体验，并非典型的农场到餐桌方式。

最热门的葡萄酒庄：圣赫勒那Sinegal Estate酒庄老板是零售巨头好市多的继承人，但从酒庄一点也看不出来。Sinegal酒庄设有私人品酒休息室，内藏丰富的现代艺术作品，四周是花园环绕的华丽庄园。私藏红酒绝对口感一流。Aonair酒庄也在圣赫勒那，比起俯瞰美丽葡萄园的视觉享受，品酒体验更是上佳。这家酒庄由家族掌管，人迹罕至，严格来说属于康谷的一部分。可以试试其出产的山间私藏红葡萄混酿。

One of the perks of staying at the Ink House: unfettered access to Brian Woolery, the property’s chef—his scrambled eggs defy gravity—and all-knowing concierge. Here’s what he recommends.

Best new restaurants: The Charter Oak, the casual St. Helena restaurant started by three-Michelin-star chef Christopher Kostow and Meadowood’s Nathaniel Dorn, is phenomenal. The atmosphere, the food, the cocktail program, the wine program—everything about it is the epitome of what a great place to eat should be. In downtown Napa, there’s the Mexican restaurant Gran Eléctrica (the original is in Brooklyn). There’s an amazing bar with a range of tequilas and mezcals. It’s a fresh twist on Napa Valley dining that isn’t your typical farm-to-table approach.

Hottest wineries: The proprietor of Sinegal Estate in St. Helena may be an heir to Costco, but you would never know it from his winery. Sinegal has a private tasting lounge that’s filled with modern art and a gorgeous estate surrounded by gardens. Its reserve red is absolutely delicious. Aonair is also in St. Helena, and the tasting experience overlooks its stunning vineyards. Family owned and off the beaten path, it is technically part of Conn Valley. Try its Mountains Reserve red blend.

避世之所：试试圣赫勒那的美国烹饪学院吧，可以参加为期半天的烹饪课程，向美国顶尖厨师学习厨艺。附近有纳帕谷健康水疗中心，有室外游泳池和按摩浴缸，还有各类按摩、面部护理和其他理疗服务。非常适合放松身心，也适合品酒间歇稍事休息。酒店客人可免费体验。

当地人才知道的秘密：在Rutherford Grill享用午餐。坐在酒吧里会惊讶地发现很多酿酒师跟同事和朋友见面，他们带着最新的木桶红酒样品共同讨论。食物也很棒，牛排辣酱玉米卷饼配胡桃南瓜尤其美味。

注意事项：不清楚各地方之间的距离。很多人以为纳帕和索诺玛开车很快就能到。但多数情况下，从一处到另一处至少要一小时。可以考虑一次只去一处，给圣赫勒那一天，另一天去豪威尔山，提前做好品酒计划。留出充分时间按当地人推荐找目的地，如果跟大流士之类品酒室经理聊得好，他会推荐你可能喜欢的地方。

花费10,000美元享受的一天

我们请伍利帮忙计划，在纳帕谷度过特别的一天：

乘坐私人飞机或直升机抵达纳帕县机场。宾利房车接机，入住Ink House（整个酒店仅接待您），之后带您前往Meadowood水疗中心缓解旅行疲惫。一位健康治疗师将全程负责，还可在私家水疗套房享受90分钟的美食体验。水疗完毕之后，可在Promontory酒庄享受私人品酒服务，Promontory是位于Oakville中心的高档酒庄，以波尔多风格赤霞珠闻名。返回Ink House之后，顶级厨师凯西·汤普森将为您准备美味晚餐，圆满结束一天的行程。（财富中文网）

本文另一版本发表于2018年11月1日的《财富》杂志，标题为《正确游玩纳帕的姿势》。

译者：Pessy

审校：夏林

Sober escape: Check out the Culinary Institute of America in St. Helena, where you can take a half-day cooking class with some of the best chefs in the country. Nearby, there’s Health Spa Napa Valley—it has an outdoor pool and Jacuzzi as well as a full menu of massages, facials, and other treatments. It’s an ideal way to relax and get a break from tastings. Our guests get complimentary passes.

Locals’ secret: Lunch at Rutherford Grill. Sit at the bar and be amazed by how many winemakers you’ll see and hear meeting their colleagues and friends, bringing fresh barrel samples, and talking about them. The food is also excellent—the steak enchilada with butternut squash is unexpectedly delicious.

Things to avoid: Not knowing how far places are from one another, a lot of people think Napa and Sonoma are a quick drive apart. But on most days, it takes at least an hour to get from one to the other. Consider focusing on one appellation—St. Helena one day, Howell Mountain another—with one or two preplanned tastings. Leave time for yourself to take locals up on their recommendations—if you’re getting along really well with the tasting-room manager at, say, Darioush, he’s going to recommend other places you might like.

The $10,000 Day

We asked Woolery to plan us a special, singular day in Napa Valley:

You’ll arrive in the valley via private jet or helicopter to Napa County Airport. We’ll pick you up in the house car, a Bentley, and check you in at the Ink House (which will be all yours for the night), before whisking you off to the Meadowood Spa for some post-travel pampering. You’ll meet with a wellness therapist, who will oversee your treatments, and enjoy a 90-minute culinary experience in your personal spa suite. After the spa you’ll do a private tasting at Promontory, an exclusive winery in the heart of Oakville that’s famous for its Bordeauxstyle Cabernet. Back at the Ink House, Top Chef alum Casey Thompson will prepare a gourmet dinner to round out the day.

A version of this article appears in the November 1, 2018 issue of Fortune with the headline “Napa Done Right.”