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烹饪达人的隔离期:分享美食、分享快乐

Maria Aspan
2020-04-24

她是烹饪达人,也是畅销书作家,对烹饪的热爱让她在疫情期间完全不会感到无聊。

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萨曼·诺斯拉特的职业是为他人烹饪美食,并凭借烹饪教学走红。现在,她正尝试用更适合居家隔离的方式,继续传授烹饪知识,并让自己保持淡定。

诺斯拉特还是一位畅销书作家,也是奈飞纪录片《盐、脂肪、酸和热量》的主持人。 “我真得快要精神错乱了。我的身体完全没有问题,我非常荣幸,这一点我也很清楚。但精神上,我几乎要崩溃了。”她说。

在新冠疫情爆发之前,诺斯拉特在奥克兰的家里已经开始了某种形式的自我隔离,这位奈飞明星刚刚结束了紧张的一年,希望在家中找回状态。如今各行各业都已经停摆,所以她只好每天做做园艺,然后思考疫情对她的下一本书会有哪些影响。她还与《白宫群英周刊》播客的主持人之一赫里希克什·希尔威共同录制了一档适合隔离期间收听的最新限量版播客《在家做饭》。

与许多创意工作者一样,诺斯拉特早已习惯了灵活的办公时间,远程办公也是家常便饭。但当这些都变成了强制规定时,诺斯拉特也体会到了与从前的不同。她表示:“我并不是说我擅长区分工作和不工作的状态。但至少在疫情之前,我会在某个时间离开办公室,或者有一些确定的时间段,我可以不工作。但现在,所有工作都要在自己家里完成,你没有‘暂停’键。”

诺斯拉特接受了《财富》杂志最新专栏“新冠经济”的采访,讨论了疫情对她的播客计划和财务状况的影响,以及她是如何克服隔离的阻碍,继续与其他人分享她对烹饪的热爱的。

为清晰起见,以下问答内容经过精简和编辑。

萨曼·诺斯拉特在奥克兰。图片来源:SMEETA MAHANTI

《财富》:疫情爆发之前,你在忙些什么?

诺斯拉特:我没有在工作,因为过去两年让我疲惫不堪。我从去年年底开始休息,尽量砍掉了所有工作,只完成之前承诺的一些项目。我以前有太多时候都是被动响应,许多决定并不是出于本心。当然结果还不错。我也得到了出色的机会。但很多选择都是基于“哦,听起来不错”或者“哦,我喜欢那个人”这样的判断,这让我达到了精疲力竭的边缘。毕竟,一个人的能力是有限的。

过去几个月我一直在积极地恢复状态,所以我很奇怪地感受到自己与其他人的遭遇并不同步。当疫情危机来临的时候,我想自己可以站出来,为人们带来快乐和安慰。所以我认为录制播客是非常正确的决定。我和赫里希克什为这档节目聊了很久。

为什么这档播客只有四集?

录制播客的工作量是很大的,要花费很长时间。我们通常要花几个小时录音,然后把它剪辑成40分钟。赫里希克什与我们的剪辑师和混音师负责大部分工作,而我则负责全部的宣传工作。而且这档播客节目完全免费,这很好;我们没有指望靠它赚钱,也很高兴免费提供给听众,但这样做很难持久。

新冠疫情和全球经济停摆对你的财务状况还有哪些影响?

许多演讲活动都延期了,不过大部分都把时间改到了年底。因为我真的很累,所以能不出差,反倒让我稍微松了一口气;我想当机会重新来临的时,我会做好准备,精神饱满地完成自己的工作。所以我很庆幸自己没有受到影响。

但不久前我也意识到,我的职业生涯大部分时间,都是依靠集会和活动产业来支付我的衣食住行。我与受疫情影响的许多厨师和餐饮业的从业者并没有太大的区别。

畅销书作家、奈飞纪录片《盐、脂肪、酸和热量》的主持人诺斯拉特说道:“我们没有意识到,制约因素往往是一份礼物。” 图片来源:SMEETA MAHANTI

这对你第二本书的写作会有影响吗?

我还没有开始写第二本书。不过书的内容依旧会与烹饪有关,会讲述哪些制约因素将决定我们能烹制的美食。所以,无论这本书什么时候出版,我想肯定还是人们熟悉的那种语言风格。

我以前计划写新闻稿和进行实地调查,但现在我关注的是人们如何应对疫情。在正常生活中,对于烹饪最常见的制约因素是时间。我们每天四处奔波,要忙工作和照顾孩子,所以我们只是尽量做些食物摆上餐桌。但现在一切都颠倒了过来:许多人有大把时间,但食材、家里的烹饪用具或者厨房里的空间却变成了制约因素。

现在我们所面临的这些制约因素非常极端,尤其是对于最弱势人群而言。但对于想要成为一名优秀厨师的人来说,我认为这是一个绝佳的学习机会。有时候,有太多的可能性反而会让事情变得更难,因为你甚至不知道该从哪里入手。事实上,我们在烹饪的时候,总是会遇到各种制约因素。只是我们没有意识到,这些制约因素往往是一份礼物。

你在工作中经常强调与别人分享美食的快乐。现在无法为其他人烹饪美食,你怎么办?

我今天突然感受到自己是多么怀念餐厅。我想念宾客满堂的场景,不过我真正念念不忘的其实是“第三空间”。我的第三空间是书店和餐厅;现在这些地方都去不了,这让我很失落。

不过我住的地方里面有四户人家。(东海岸的读者可能认为是一个社区,但实际上类似于共有公寓。)大家都很有社区意识,实际上我们在共同隔离。邻居之间的年龄跨度从0到70岁,所有人都很谨慎,都会戴口罩。但我们在院子里摆了一张桌子。如果我做了烤宽面或其他食物,我会把它放到桌子上,然后告诉所有人。如果有人收到农场寄来的食材,我们也会分享。虽然我独自一人居住,但这一切让我不会感到孤单,这种感觉很好。(财富中文网)

译者:Biz

萨曼·诺斯拉特的职业是为他人烹饪美食,并凭借烹饪教学走红。现在,她正尝试用更适合居家隔离的方式,继续传授烹饪知识,并让自己保持淡定。

诺斯拉特还是一位畅销书作家,也是奈飞纪录片《盐、脂肪、酸和热量》的主持人。 “我真得快要精神错乱了。我的身体完全没有问题,我非常荣幸,这一点我也很清楚。但精神上,我几乎要崩溃了。”她说。

在新冠疫情爆发之前,诺斯拉特在奥克兰的家里已经开始了某种形式的自我隔离,这位奈飞明星刚刚结束了紧张的一年,希望在家中找回状态。如今各行各业都已经停摆,所以她只好每天做做园艺,然后思考疫情对她的下一本书会有哪些影响。她还与《白宫群英周刊》播客的主持人之一赫里希克什·希尔威共同录制了一档适合隔离期间收听的最新限量版播客《在家做饭》。

与许多创意工作者一样,诺斯拉特早已习惯了灵活的办公时间,远程办公也是家常便饭。但当这些都变成了强制规定时,诺斯拉特也体会到了与从前的不同。她表示:“我并不是说我擅长区分工作和不工作的状态。但至少在疫情之前,我会在某个时间离开办公室,或者有一些确定的时间段,我可以不工作。但现在,所有工作都要在自己家里完成,你没有‘暂停’键。”

诺斯拉特接受了《财富》杂志最新专栏“新冠经济”的采访,讨论了疫情对她的播客计划和财务状况的影响,以及她是如何克服隔离的阻碍,继续与其他人分享她对烹饪的热爱的。

为清晰起见,以下问答内容经过精简和编辑。

《财富》:疫情爆发之前,你在忙些什么?

诺斯拉特:我没有在工作,因为过去两年让我疲惫不堪。我从去年年底开始休息,尽量砍掉了所有工作,只完成之前承诺的一些项目。我以前有太多时候都是被动响应,许多决定并不是出于本心。当然结果还不错。我也得到了出色的机会。但很多选择都是基于“哦,听起来不错”或者“哦,我喜欢那个人”这样的判断,这让我达到了精疲力竭的边缘。毕竟,一个人的能力是有限的。

过去几个月我一直在积极地恢复状态,所以我很奇怪地感受到自己与其他人的遭遇并不同步。当疫情危机来临的时候,我想自己可以站出来,为人们带来快乐和安慰。所以我认为录制播客是非常正确的决定。我和赫里希克什为这档节目聊了很久。

为什么这档播客只有四集?

录制播客的工作量是很大的,要花费很长时间。我们通常要花几个小时录音,然后把它剪辑成40分钟。赫里希克什与我们的剪辑师和混音师负责大部分工作,而我则负责全部的宣传工作。而且这档播客节目完全免费,这很好;我们没有指望靠它赚钱,也很高兴免费提供给听众,但这样做很难持久。

新冠疫情和全球经济停摆对你的财务状况还有哪些影响?

许多演讲活动都延期了,不过大部分都把时间改到了年底。因为我真的很累,所以能不出差,反倒让我稍微松了一口气;我想当机会重新来临的时,我会做好准备,精神饱满地完成自己的工作。所以我很庆幸自己没有受到影响。

但不久前我也意识到,我的职业生涯大部分时间,都是依靠集会和活动产业来支付我的衣食住行。我与受疫情影响的许多厨师和餐饮业的从业者并没有太大的区别。

这对你第二本书的写作会有影响吗?

我还没有开始写第二本书。不过书的内容依旧会与烹饪有关,会讲述哪些制约因素将决定我们能烹制的美食。所以,无论这本书什么时候出版,我想肯定还是人们熟悉的那种语言风格。

我以前计划写新闻稿和进行实地调查,但现在我关注的是人们如何应对疫情。在正常生活中,对于烹饪最常见的制约因素是时间。我们每天四处奔波,要忙工作和照顾孩子,所以我们只是尽量做些食物摆上餐桌。但现在一切都颠倒了过来:许多人有大把时间,但食材、家里的烹饪用具或者厨房里的空间却变成了制约因素。

现在我们所面临的这些制约因素非常极端,尤其是对于最弱势人群而言。但对于想要成为一名优秀厨师的人来说,我认为这是一个绝佳的学习机会。有时候,有太多的可能性反而会让事情变得更难,因为你甚至不知道该从哪里入手。事实上,我们在烹饪的时候,总是会遇到各种制约因素。只是我们没有意识到,这些制约因素往往是一份礼物。

你在工作中经常强调与别人分享美食的快乐。现在无法为其他人烹饪美食,你怎么办?

我今天突然感受到自己是多么怀念餐厅。我想念宾客满堂的场景,不过我真正念念不忘的其实是“第三空间”。我的第三空间是书店和餐厅;现在这些地方都去不了,这让我很失落。

不过我住的地方里面有四户人家。(东海岸的读者可能认为是一个社区,但实际上类似于共有公寓。)大家都很有社区意识,实际上我们在共同隔离。邻居之间的年龄跨度从0到70岁,所有人都很谨慎,都会戴口罩。但我们在院子里摆了一张桌子。如果我做了烤宽面或其他食物,我会把它放到桌子上,然后告诉所有人。如果有人收到农场寄来的食材,我们也会分享。虽然我独自一人居住,但这一切让我不会感到孤单,这种感觉很好。(财富中文网)

译者:Biz

Samin Nosrat made a career out of cooking for other people, and became famous teaching them how to do it themselves. Now she’s trying to carry on—and stay sane—in a more quarantine-friendly format.

“I definitely am beginning to lose my mind,” says the bestselling author and Netflix star of Salt Fat Acid Heat. “I’m totally fine. I have great privilege; I’m completely aware of that. And I’m a human who’s losing my mind here.”

Before the coronavirus, Nosrat was already in a sort of self-imposed quarantine at her Oakland home, recovering from a whirlwind year of Netflix-conferred celebrity. Now that everything else has shut down, she’s spending her days gardening and thinking about how the pandemic will influence her next book. She’s also recording and producing a new, limited, quarantine-appropriate Home Cooking podcast, with West Wing Weekly cohost Hrishikesh Hirway.

Like many creative professionals used to working flexibly and often remotely, Nosrat is noticing a difference, now that those conditions are mandatory. “It’s not like I’m the best to begin with at separating work and not-work. But at least in my pre-coronavirus life, I either left my office at some point or there were clearly delineated times that I could not be working,” she says. “Now, when you’re doing all of this stuff on your own from home, there is no ‘off’ button.”

Nosrat spoke with Fortune for a new series, The Coronavirus Economy, to discuss how the pandemic has affected her podcasting plans and her finances, and how she’s overcoming isolation to continue sharing her love of cooking with others.

The following Q&A has been condensed and lightly edited for clarity.

Fortune: What were you working on before this all happened?

Nosrat: I wasn’t really working, because I was so burnt out from the last two years. Starting at the end of last year, I took a break and tried to cut away everything that was not a commitment. I had been doing a lot of responding in the moment, and my most grounded self was not making the decisions. It was not bad. There were amazing opportunities coming my way! But I was making choices based on, “Ooh, that sounds good,” or “Ooh, I like that person,” and that just led me to the brink of exhaustion. One person can only do so much.

In a weird way I feel out of sync with what others are going through, because I have been very actively restoring myself in the last few months. So when this crisis came about, I felt available to show up for people and be a source of joy and comfort. And that was why it felt totally right to do the podcast, which is something that Hrishi and I have been talking about for a long time.

Why are you only doing four episodes of the podcast?

It is an incredible amount of work. It takes a lot of time—we record hours and hours, and then edit that down into 40 minutes. Hrishi and our editor and mixer do so much of the work, and almost all the publicity has fallen to me. And we’re not making any money off of it, which is fine; we didn’t expect to, and we are happy not to, but it’s not the most sustainable thing.

So how else are this pandemic and global shutdown affecting your finances?

I had many speaking events postponed, but a bunch of them just got rescheduled for the end of this year. Because I’m so tired, I was a little bit relieved to not have to travel; I think I’ll be ready and excited to do it when the opportunity comes back. So I’m in the really lucky position to not be affected.

But I also feel incredibly aware that not so very long ago, and for the bulk of my professional career, I relied on gathering with people and essentially the event industry to pay my rent and eat. And I’m not so far away from the many, many, many cooks and food workers who are affected by this.

Does this affect your work on your second book at all?

Well, I haven’t really been working on my book. But it’s all about cooking, and the constraints that determine what we should be cooking. And so I feel like the language of that will be a lot more familiar to people, whenever the book finally does come out!

What I was planning to do was reporting and in-person research, and now I’m getting to pay attention to how people are coping. In our normal lives, the most typical constraint on our cooking is time. We’re rushing around, we have jobs and children, and we’re just trying to get something on the table. Right now, that’s turned upside down: a lot of people do have the time, and the constraints are mostly ingredients, or what tools you have at home, or what kind of space you have in your kitchen.

The particular set of constraints that we’re facing right now are very extreme, especially for some of our most vulnerable populations. But I also think it’s an amazing learning opportunity for people who want to become better cooks. Sometimes having anything be possible makes it harder, because you don’t even know where to start. The truth is, we’re always cooking with some constraints. We just don’t realize that often constraints are a gift.

Your work often highlights your joy in sharing food with other people. How are you dealing with not being able to cook for others?

Today it really hit me how much I miss restaurants. I definitely miss having people over, but what I really miss is that idea of the third place. For me, bookstores and restaurants are that third place; I can't go to either of them now, and that’s a big loss.

But I live in one of four houses on the same piece of property. (East Coasters would probably think of it as a commune. It’s not a commune, it’s more like condos.) We all have a shared sense of community, and we are in effect co-quarantining. We span ages zero to 74, and we’re all being very cautious and wearing masks. But we have a table in the courtyard where if I make a lasagna or something, I just put it out there, and let everyone know. Or if people get a farm-box delivery, we share stuff. There is this way where I’m alone, but not that alone, which feels really good. It’s a saving grace.

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