蔻驰CEO：中国的部分门店要向更好的地段转移

    蔻驰（Coach ）上周四透露战略规划，以期从迈克尔高司（Michael Kors）和Kate Spade等竞争对手手中夺回曾属于自己的北美市场份额，同时推动海外业务加速增长。

    这家总部设在纽约的手袋及皮革制品公司向华尔街分析师透露，它计划于未来数月内关闭北美20%的全业务门店。这家公司第一季度北美同店销售额下滑了21%。蔻驰还将关停北美地区的部分工厂店。与此同时，蔻驰将努力在北美地区打造更出色的百货店中店及更注重客户体验的旗舰店来弥补关店的损失。这家公司在北美12个主要市场的业务占它销售总额的一半。

    蔻驰将从9月份开始销售创意总监斯图亚特•维佛斯设计的第一个产品系列。维佛斯的产品设计理念依托于蔻驰73年历史的传承和纽约根源。这个系列的产品系意味着对蔻驰经典的回归，标志着这家公司在努力重新赢得一些昔日拥趸的青睐。在这些粉丝的印象中，蔻驰品牌近几年变得太花哨了。

    即使在中国市场（也是它近期的销售增长引擎），蔻驰也在调整做法：关闭客流量不理想的门店，另择新址开设新店。

    投资者对蔻驰忧心忡忡。这家公司表示恢复增长可能需要一段时间的消息传出后，公司股价应声下挫了9%。

    蔻驰CEO维克多•路易斯近日在公司曼哈顿总部接受了《财富》杂志的专访，阐述了他扭转业务颓势的策略。路易斯今年1月份走马上任，出任蔻驰CEO。此前几年，他一直在这家奢侈品公司国际业务部门担任高管。

    《财富》：在许多规模较小的市场关闭门店，你们会不会因此把当地的机会拱手让给迈克尔高司这类正在扩大门店网络规模的竞争对手？

    我们大部分的动作并不是彻底放弃某一个市场。在他们所在的市场中，我们的店面数量都不止一处。在所有我们计划关闭门店的购物中心，我们无一例外都有一个批发店面，要么设在梅西百货（Macy’s），要么是在布鲁明戴尔百货

    你们为什么专注于北美12个主要市场，而不寻求更广阔的市场空间？

    我们在这些市场的业务占到公司总销售额的一半以上，当然它们是最重要的旅游目的地。它们是面向全球的PR（公共关系）和营销扩音器，因为在那里购物的消费者往往是引领潮流的人。

    Coach laid out on Thursday the strategy it hopes will help it win back the market share it has lost in North America to the likes of Michael Kors KORS -0.85% and kate spade KATE 2.59% , and accelerate its growth overseas.

    The New York handbag and leather-goods companytold Wall Street analysts that it planned to close 20% of its full-service stores in North America, where comparable sales fell 21% last quarter, in the coming months. The brand will consolidate some of its factory stores in the region as well. It will try to make up for that with better spots in department stores and high-touch flagship stores in the 12 major North American markets where it gets half of its sales.

    In September, it will start selling the first collection designed by creative director Stuart Vevers, who has focused on the 73-year-old company’s heritage and New York roots. The new collection is a nod to Coach classics—and an effort to start to win back shoppers who thought the brand had grown too showy in recent years.

    Even in China, the motor of its sales growth of late, Coach is tweaking its approach, closing stores in locations that have become less attractive and opening new stores in better spots.

    Investors proved nervous and sent shares down 9% after the company said returning to growth could take a while.

    Coach CEO Victor Luis, who took the reins in January after helping build the luxury company’s international business in recent years, sat down with Fortune at Coach’s Manhattan headquarters for an exclusive interview to discuss his strategy.

    Fortune: In closing stores in many smaller markets, do you not risk ceding the opportunity in such locations to rivals like Michael Kors, which is expanding?

    Most of the moves are not about giving up on total markets. They are in markets where we have more than one location. In all of the malls where we are closing stores, we have a wholesale location, either at a Macy’s M 0.12% , a Bloomingdale’s, or another partner.

    Why the focus on the 12 major North America markets, rather than a broader footprint?

    They represent over half of our sales, and certainly they represent the most important tourist destinations. They are the PR (public relations) and marketing megaphones to the world because a lot of the consumers who shop there tend to be the trendsetters as well.