今年3月，主厨何塞·安德烈斯来到曼哈顿，为他餐饮帝国的新店开张做着准备。这是一家西班牙菜餐厅，占地3.5万平方英尺，位于哈德逊城市广场（Hudson Yards）。这里名厨汇聚，如法国洗衣店餐厅（French Laundry）的托马斯·凯勒和百福餐厅（Momofuku）的戴维·常，而安德烈斯的这家纽约餐厅的主打菜是熏肉和乳酪、西班牙小菜tapas和海鲜饭，以及精选的十几种雪利酒。

不过，餐厅开业仅仅一周，安德烈斯就来到了内布拉斯加州只有2.6万人口的弗里蒙特市，为受到美国中西部的空前洪灾影响而无家可归的家庭分发食物。在安德烈斯看来，一位两星米其林大厨和西班牙烹饪的开拓者在道奇郡的一座天主教堂分发三明治是一件理所当然的事情。

他说：“需要医疗服务时，你会请医生和护士。需要重建基础设施时，你会请工程师和建筑师。而如果要为人们提供食物，你就得找专业大厨。”

安德烈斯通过他的非营利机构世界中央厨房（World Central Kitchen, WCK）践行着这一信条。这个组织成立于2010年他在海地震后完成志愿服务之后。从那以后，哪里有灾害爆发，安德烈斯和他的团队都会带着一个简单的使命出现在那里：向人们提供食物，尤其是在那些最难以抵达的地区。他表示：“重大的难题其实有着简单的解决方案。”这种情况下，只要开始烹饪就可以了——这一任务重塑了救济工作和人道主义援助的理念。

在海地救灾之后，安德烈斯和世界中央厨房又来到了台风经过的得克萨斯州、佛罗里达州和北卡罗来纳州，火山爆发后的危地马拉和夏威夷，为这些地区的受灾者提供食物。他们在美国政府关门期间救济了联邦工人，在加利福尼亚州大火期间支援了消防员，还帮助了蒂华纳的中美洲难民。最近，安德烈斯还去了在3月中旬遭到飓风袭击的莫桑比克，在他离开之前，世界中央厨房在这里每日供应的食物量翻了一倍，达到2万份。他和他的团队不会等到批准才开始行动。他表示，人们食不果腹之时，你必须立刻提供食物，而不是开上十几个会再订好计划，等到明天或者一周后再行动。他解释道：“我们不会坐等谁来告诉我们要怎么做。”

安德烈斯最引人注目的工作是在波多黎各。他乘上了飓风玛利亚之后第一趟飞往这个小岛的商业航班。世界中央厨房将成为这里最大的新鲜食品供应商，迄今为止已经为近400万人服务。据报道，这项壮举帮助安德烈斯赢得了诺贝尔和平奖的提名。世界中央厨房目前正在波多黎各继续努力，通过项目帮助该岛种植更多自己的农作物，从而为下次灾害来袭做好准备。

大厨在波多黎各的经历让他对当前援助模式存在的问题有了进一步的理解。他认为非政府组织的行动缺乏紧迫感和灵活度。他表示，大型非营利组织必须更加精简，具备更多专业技能。他说：“我们带来了解决共同问题的新观点。我们来这里不是为了排挤任何人，但我确实认为有必要告诉大家，是时候彻底自我改造了。”（财富中文网）

本文另一个版本登载于《财富》杂志2019年5月刊。

译者：严匡正

In March, chef José Andrés descended on Manhattan to prepare for the launch of a fresh addition to his restaurant empire—a 35,000-square-foot Spanish food hall in the sparkling new Hudson Yards complex. Here, alongside other A-list chefs such as the French Laundry’s Thomas Keller and Momofuku’s David Chang, Andrés’s New York City culinary concept would ply patrons with cured meats and cheese, tapas and paella, and a selection of a dozen sherries.

Just over a week after the opening, Andrés was on the ground in Fremont, Neb.—population 26,000—handing out meals to families displaced by the unprecedented flooding wreaking havoc throughout the Midwest. That a two-star Michelin chef and pioneer of Spanish cuisine would deliver sandwiches out of a Catholic church here in Dodge County seemed obvious to Andrés.

“When you need medical service, you bring doctors and nurses,” he says. “When you need the rebuilding of infrastructure, you bring in engineers and architects. And if you have to feed people, you need professional chefs.”

Andrés has formalized that credo through his nonprofit, World Central Kitchen (WCK), which he founded after volunteering in Haiti in the wake of its 2010 earthquake. Since then, Andrés and his team show up with a simple mission wherever disaster strikes: to feed people, especially those who are hardest to reach. “The big problems have very simple solutions,” he says. In this case, it’s to just start cooking—a quest that is remaking ideas about what relief work and humanitarian aid can look like.

Since Haiti, Andrés and WCK have fed Texas, Florida, and North Carolina after hurricanes; Guatemala and Hawaii after volcanic eruptions; Indonesia post-earthquake and tsunami; federal workers during the U.S. government shutdown; firefighters amid the California wildfires; and Central American refugees in Tijuana. Most recently, Andrés was in Mozambique, which was hit in mid-March by a cyclone, attempting to double the number of daily meals produced by WCK to 20,000 by the time he left. He and his team do not wait for permission to show up. When people are hungry, he says, you must start feeding them today, not tomorrow or a week from now, after you’ve had a dozen meetings and made a plan. “We don’t sit waiting for someone to tell us what to do,” he explains.

Andrés’s most visible work took place in Puerto Rico, where he jumped on one of the first commercial flights to the island in the aftermath of Hurricane Maria. WCK would become the territory’s largest provider of fresh meals—to date it has served nearly 4 million—a feat that reportedly helped earn Andrés a Nobel Peace Prize nomination. WCK continues to operate in Puerto Rico through programs that help the island grow more of its own crops so it’s better prepared next time disaster strikes.

The chef’s experience in Puerto Rico further opened his eyes to problems with the current aid model; he saw NGOs moving without urgency and flexibility. Big nonprofits must become leaner, with more expertise, he says. “We come with a fresh view of how to solve the same problems,” he says. “We are not here to push anybody out, but I do think we are here to tell people we need to reinvent ourselves.”

A version of this article appears in the May 2019 issue of Fortune.