在服务行业摸爬滚打20多年之后,贝琳达·张现已成为备受追捧的葡萄酒专家和侍酒师,在业内享有盛誉。
贝琳达常驻芝加哥,曾荣获詹姆斯·比德尔奖。她既为客户筹备私人葡萄酒宴会,也负责筹办许多人气爆棚的业内活动,比如每年在阿斯彭举办的Food & WineClassic泳池派对。
但在可预见的未来,随着全美各地纷纷取消各类聚会和活动,餐饮从业者的工作也随之按下了暂停键。
最近,《财富》杂志采访了贝琳达,询问了有关新冠病毒对其所处行业以及未来规划的影响,并了解了她在面对疫情时如何管理自身情绪和财务状况。
《财富》:新冠疫情爆发前你的日常生活是怎样的?
贝琳达·张:作为一名初次创业、白手起家的女性创业者,在新冠疫情被宣布为大流行病以前,我正在为创业两周年举行庆祝活动。我的工作是寻找并锁定那些理想的全球客户群,他们会聘请我打造由奢华美食、美酒、美景和旅行等元素构成的梦幻体验。一月和二月我都在忙着满世界出差,几乎没有喘息的时间。虽然累点,但还是非常兴奋的,因为那是我创业两年以来,第一次真正有钱给自己付工资。
你从什么时候开始意识到,新冠疫情影响到了自己的工作?
3月6日,我正在多伦多出差,跟几位记者一起喝桃红葡萄酒。在刚开始吃腌凤尾鱼和咸鳕鱼时,我收到了一些客户的邮件和信息,问我有没有时间打电话聊几句。于是我就走到外面打了几个电话。第一个电话是要取消原定于6月举行的一个全球投资者活动,并要求我立刻退款。随后几个电话也都是要求取消活动。当时天气很冷,还下着雨,所以显得有些凄凉。打完电话,我又回去接着开会了,当时感觉很想吐。
纽约、加利福尼亚、伊利诺伊等州纷纷出台封城令,对此你作何感想?封城对整个餐饮业有何影响?
我完全支持那些决定封城的州长和市长,同时也希望更多地方能尽早做出这种决定,毕竟事关生死。显然,防护措施越早到位,生命才可以在更大程度地得到保障。我们必须竭尽全力让疫情曲线赶快降下来。在这个过程中,从事餐饮的朋友,无论是老板还是员工都必将面临毁灭性的打击。
我从事餐饮业已经有25年了。无论从哪个方面来看,餐饮业几乎都是最难做的行业之一。在员工保护和福利方面,餐饮业排名倒数,收入常常连维持生计都不够。工作辛苦不说,工作时间还很长,然而个体小店仍是赚不到什么钱。以我酒水单上售价500美元的葡萄酒为例,不算我卖酒的人工、房租、酒具等成本,光是拍下它就得450美金。
在餐饮业和服务业的700万失业者中,有很大一部分过着月光族的生活,还要养家糊口。对他们而言,疫情期间就如同末日。如果政府不为那些个体小餐馆提供定向援助和支持,那人们以后就只能去连锁快餐或饭店吃饭了。
消费者可以为餐饮从业者提供哪些支持?
每天,我都能收到几十封请求捐款的邮件,有的来自众筹网站GoFundMe上的个体餐馆,有的来自旨在消除饥饿的新旧组织还有像詹姆斯·比尔德基金会(美国最负盛名的厨艺组织)这样的机构,让人感到无所适从。他们募捐当然自有其意义,问题是:从募捐到受助者最终拿到捐款还需要一段时间。很多人现在急需救助,所以我希望人们能支持那些可以让受助者立刻拿到钱的项目,这样他们才能有钱付房租,不必担心被赶出去家门,也可以有钱解决家人的温饱问题。
Jackie and Dani’s Virtual Happy Hour是一档每晚播出的线上直播节目,对失业的调酒师来说,在节目中表演调酒可以赚取现金小费。My virtual brunch也是一档类似的节目,在这里,失业的侍酒师也能赚取收入贴补家用。《Punch》杂志每天都在邀请调酒师参与Instagram线上直播。这些做法对帮助失业者有着立竿见影的功效。但需要帮助的人还有很多。看到每天有很多公司在为自家员工举行各种线上活动,大家就有了一个好主意:为什么不让这些备受追捧,但现在失业在家的调酒师、侍酒师、大厨们通过虚拟方式继续为客户提供服务呢?他们可以通过网络与客户互动、创造愉悦体验、分享食谱、酒水选购或者烹饪方面的技巧以及操作演示,重要的是,这样能够帮他们获得一些小费收入。
疫情非常时期,除了工作,在情感和精神方面你是怎么做的?
当取光了银行存款,接听了许多被解雇、休无薪假还有刚失业朋友的电话后,我很想躺在床上彻底地躲几个星期。
但脑海里总有个声音在告诉我,要立刻采取行动,尽可能去帮助别人。于是我决定利用自己的经验和关系来做些有益的事。大家常说我很擅长创造体验,跟我在一起时,会有被关注、被重视的感觉。于是我便把这种体验带到了虚拟世界,来即时满足人们对社交和安适心态的需要。我也能赚些钱,为我的朋友提供一些帮助。现在,通过制作、主持虚拟早午餐,来尽力帮助别人,能使我一直保持良好的精神状态。
许多餐饮从业者现在处境十分艰难,对未来几周、几月内能否重新开业或找到工作也充满疑虑,你有什么话想对这些同行说吗?
黎明前的黑暗总是最难熬,但我们终将迎来胜利的曙光。(财富中文网)
译者:Feb
在服务行业摸爬滚打20多年之后,贝琳达·张现已成为备受追捧的葡萄酒专家和侍酒师,在业内享有盛誉。
贝琳达常驻芝加哥,曾荣获詹姆斯·比德尔奖。她既为客户筹备私人葡萄酒宴会,也负责筹办许多人气爆棚的业内活动,比如每年在阿斯彭举办的Food & WineClassic泳池派对。
但在可预见的未来,随着全美各地纷纷取消各类聚会和活动,餐饮从业者的工作也随之按下了暂停键。
最近,《财富》杂志采访了贝琳达,询问了有关新冠病毒对其所处行业以及未来规划的影响,并了解了她在面对疫情时如何管理自身情绪和财务状况。
《财富》:新冠疫情爆发前你的日常生活是怎样的?
贝琳达·张:作为一名初次创业、白手起家的女性创业者,在新冠疫情被宣布为大流行病以前,我正在为创业两周年举行庆祝活动。我的工作是寻找并锁定那些理想的全球客户群,他们会聘请我打造由奢华美食、美酒、美景和旅行等元素构成的梦幻体验。一月和二月我都在忙着满世界出差,几乎没有喘息的时间。虽然累点,但还是非常兴奋的,因为那是我创业两年以来,第一次真正有钱给自己付工资。
你从什么时候开始意识到,新冠疫情影响到了自己的工作?
3月6日,我正在多伦多出差,跟几位记者一起喝桃红葡萄酒。在刚开始吃腌凤尾鱼和咸鳕鱼时,我收到了一些客户的邮件和信息,问我有没有时间打电话聊几句。于是我就走到外面打了几个电话。第一个电话是要取消原定于6月举行的一个全球投资者活动,并要求我立刻退款。随后几个电话也都是要求取消活动。当时天气很冷,还下着雨,所以显得有些凄凉。打完电话,我又回去接着开会了,当时感觉很想吐。
纽约、加利福尼亚、伊利诺伊等州纷纷出台封城令,对此你作何感想?封城对整个餐饮业有何影响?
我完全支持那些决定封城的州长和市长,同时也希望更多地方能尽早做出这种决定,毕竟事关生死。显然,防护措施越早到位,生命才可以在更大程度地得到保障。我们必须竭尽全力让疫情曲线赶快降下来。在这个过程中,从事餐饮的朋友,无论是老板还是员工都必将面临毁灭性的打击。
我从事餐饮业已经有25年了。无论从哪个方面来看,餐饮业几乎都是最难做的行业之一。在员工保护和福利方面,餐饮业排名倒数,收入常常连维持生计都不够。工作辛苦不说,工作时间还很长,然而个体小店仍是赚不到什么钱。以我酒水单上售价500美元的葡萄酒为例,不算我卖酒的人工、房租、酒具等成本,光是拍下它就得450美金。
在餐饮业和服务业的700万失业者中,有很大一部分过着月光族的生活,还要养家糊口。对他们而言,疫情期间就如同末日。如果政府不为那些个体小餐馆提供定向援助和支持,那人们以后就只能去连锁快餐或饭店吃饭了。
消费者可以为餐饮从业者提供哪些支持?
每天,我都能收到几十封请求捐款的邮件,有的来自众筹网站GoFundMe上的个体餐馆,有的来自旨在消除饥饿的新旧组织还有像詹姆斯·比尔德基金会(美国最负盛名的厨艺组织)这样的机构,让人感到无所适从。他们募捐当然自有其意义,问题是:从募捐到受助者最终拿到捐款还需要一段时间。很多人现在急需救助,所以我希望人们能支持那些可以让受助者立刻拿到钱的项目,这样他们才能有钱付房租,不必担心被赶出去家门,也可以有钱解决家人的温饱问题。
Jackie and Dani’s Virtual Happy Hour是一档每晚播出的线上直播节目,对失业的调酒师来说,在节目中表演调酒可以赚取现金小费。My virtual brunch也是一档类似的节目,在这里,失业的侍酒师也能赚取收入贴补家用。《Punch》杂志每天都在邀请调酒师参与Instagram线上直播。这些做法对帮助失业者有着立竿见影的功效。但需要帮助的人还有很多。看到每天有很多公司在为自家员工举行各种线上活动,大家就有了一个好主意:为什么不让这些备受追捧,但现在失业在家的调酒师、侍酒师、大厨们通过虚拟方式继续为客户提供服务呢?他们可以通过网络与客户互动、创造愉悦体验、分享食谱、酒水选购或者烹饪方面的技巧以及操作演示,重要的是,这样能够帮他们获得一些小费收入。
疫情非常时期,除了工作,在情感和精神方面你是怎么做的?
当取光了银行存款,接听了许多被解雇、休无薪假还有刚失业朋友的电话后,我很想躺在床上彻底地躲几个星期。
但脑海里总有个声音在告诉我,要立刻采取行动,尽可能去帮助别人。于是我决定利用自己的经验和关系来做些有益的事。大家常说我很擅长创造体验,跟我在一起时,会有被关注、被重视的感觉。于是我便把这种体验带到了虚拟世界,来即时满足人们对社交和安适心态的需要。我也能赚些钱,为我的朋友提供一些帮助。现在,通过制作、主持虚拟早午餐,来尽力帮助别人,能使我一直保持良好的精神状态。
许多餐饮从业者现在处境十分艰难,对未来几周、几月内能否重新开业或找到工作也充满疑虑,你有什么话想对这些同行说吗?
黎明前的黑暗总是最难熬,但我们终将迎来胜利的曙光。(财富中文网)
译者:Feb
Over the course of her career spanning more than 20 years, Belinda Chang has made a name for herself in the hospitality industry as a sought-after wine expert and sommelier.
Based in Chicago, the James Beard Award winner plans both intimate wine and food pairing dinners for private clients as well as some of the industry’s buzziest events, including the now-annual pool party at the Food & WineClassic in Aspen.
But with virtually all gatherings and events of any size canceled nationwide for the foreseeable future, wine and culinary professionals have to put a great deal of their careers on hold, too.
Fortune spoke with Chang for a new series, The Coronavirus Economy, to ask about how the outbreak of COVID-19 has affected her employment status and her plans for the future, and to get a sense of how she has been handling this news, both emotionally and financially.
Fortune: What was your regular schedule like before the coronavirus outbreak?
Chang: Right before the outbreak was declared a pandemic, I was celebrating the second official year of doing business as a bootstrap woman entrepreneur and one woman show with my first business. I had chased down and locked in a portfolio of my dream global clients who were hiring me to create and execute my dream experiences with luxury food, wine, beauty, and travel elements. I was busy and traveling everywhere and working 24/7 in January and February. And I was so excited to actually be able to pay myself for the first time in more than two years since I started my business.
When did you realize that the outbreak of COVID-19 was going to upend your business?
I was in Toronto on March 6 for a work trip (drinking rosé cava with a few journalists and starting in on some boquerones—marinated white anchovies—and bacalao), and I started receiving “Do you have time for a quick call?” emails and texts from a few of my clients. I stepped outside to make a few calls. (It was raining and cold that day to make matters worse.) The first call was to cancel a global investor event in June and to request an immediate refund. And then there was a second. And a third. And a fourth. I went back into my meeting and almost threw up.
What has been your reaction to the shutdowns in New York, California, Illinois, etc., and how those would affect the bar and restaurant industry at large?
I fully support the governors and mayors who made the choice to do so and wish that more had done so earlier. The choice is life or death. It is clear that more people will live the sooner our entire country is sheltering in place. We must do everything possible to flatten the curve and keep that sucker flat. And of course, this crushes all of my friends who own and work for bars and restaurants.
I spent 25 years working in restaurants and bars every day, and we work in one of the toughest industries in just about every way. We have the some of the lowest levels of worker protections and benefits and often a less than living wage. We work the toughest hours with physically demanding work, and these small, independently owned businesses operate on some of the lowest margins. That $500 wine on my wine list cost me $450 at auction without the labor, rent, glassware, and all of the other costs for me to sell it and serve it to you.
A large percentage of the 7 million laid-off restaurant and hospitality workers live paycheck to paycheck and have families to support. This whole thing is devastating. We are going to be left with only corporate fast food and national chain restaurants to choose from for dinner out if the government doesn’t target aid and support for small, independently owned restaurants.
What can consumers do to support restaurant industry workers?
It is a bewildering landscape of individual restaurant GoFundMe pages, new and old end-hunger organizations, and foundations like the James Beard Foundation asking for your dollars right now. I receive dozens of emails asking me to give to these organizations every day. Those are all worthy causes, but it will take that money some time to filter out to the end recipient. I want to direct people to support the endeavors that immediately get needed dollars to pay rent to avoid eviction, and to buy groceries to feed families directly—and into the pockets of those who need that help now.
Jackie and Dani’s Virtual Happy Hour put cash tips into the pockets of laid-off bartenders while they are shaking and stirring drinks every night on webcam. My virtual brunch is doing the same for your favorite sommeliers who now have no way to earn a living. Punch magazine is hosting bartenders every day on Instagram Live. All of this is immediate and awesome. But we have many more people to help. So many companies are hosting virtual events for their employees at the end of the day, so here is a big idea: why not bring in your favorite out-of-work bartenders, sommeliers, chefs, and others to do what they have always done for you, only virtually, and let them serve, connect, comfort, share recipes, wine-buying tips and cooking tips and demonstrations for tips?
Aside from business, how have you been coping—emotionally, mentally—from day-to-day during this tumultuous time?
After I emptied my bank account and fielded so many calls from friends who have been laid-off or furloughed and are newly unemployed, I was tempted to stay in bed for a few weeks and really shut myself into a cocoon.
But what has kept me from doing that is the voice in my head that told me to do something, anything that I could to help right away. Leverage my experience and connections for good. People have told me that I am best at creating experiences and making people feel taken care of and like they are the most important person in the room. So I created an experience designed to do that virtually and fulfill people’s need to connect and be comforted right now—and that raises money to help my friends. Producing and hosting virtual brunch right now and doing all that I can to help others is keeping me sane.
What words would you share with your colleagues in the industry who are struggling right now and fear not being able to reopen or find work over the next few weeks and months?
It is going to get tougher before it gets easier, and we shall overcome, together.