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疫情期间百业凋零,为何整容业却逆风飞扬

Rachel King
2020-11-02

整容业今年意外崛起。

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随着数百万美国人在家工作,并避免与直系亲属和亲密朋友以外的人进行社交活动,媒体频繁报道称,诸如化妆品和服装零售这种依靠人们外出活动而兴旺的行业皆陷入绝境,销售额直线下降。

整形手术诊所的近况却恰恰相反,充沛的宅家时间正在助力美容服务行业繁荣发展,尤其是像肉毒杆菌和皮肤填充剂这类备受欢迎且价格昂贵的皮肤护理服务。

甚至在今年夏天,美国一些地方开始解除疫情封锁之前,隔离在家的人们对整形手术的兴趣就已经开始升温。今年6月,美国整形外科医生协会(ASPS) 对超过1,000名消费者的调查发现,49%没有做过整形手术的人表示,她们愿意在不久的将来接受美容或整形治疗。同月公布的另一项ASPS研究发现,自新冠疫情爆发以来,64%的美国整形外科医生接受的远程医疗咨询次数有所增加。

根据《财富》对美国东西海岸皮肤科医生的访谈,造成这种激增的原因并不只一个,而是一些最平凡但无所不在的疫情期现象的集合:大量的宅家时间、空荡荡的日程安排表、寥寥无几的社交活动、口罩强制令,以及视频通讯软件Zoom的崛起。

皮肤科医生、纽约市上东区第五大道美学中心创始人玛丽•哈亚格博士强调称,这种现象在很大程度上应该归因于她所说的“Zoom效应”。她听到许多新老病患抱怨说,她们在参加视频会议时发现自己长了双下巴、皱纹和眼袋。在她的诊所里,目前最受欢迎的治疗方法包括:专门清除细纹和皱纹的神经调节剂(如肉毒杆菌)、富含血小板血浆疗法(PRP)专门治疗压力导致的脱发、针对所谓“口罩痘”的面部治疗,以及使用CoolSculpting和Emsculpt进行身体塑形(因为大多数健身房和健身中心直到最近仍在关闭)。

哈亚格指出,拥有更多的时间,可能并不是导致手术预约激增的唯一因素;禁足在家的人们也在寻找各种各样的方式来打发时间。

“越来越多的病人在家工作,这使他们可以接受那些需要‘在家躲几天’的治疗。”哈亚格说,“就停工时间而言,这使她们没有什么社交活动需要担心,也能有事可做,更充满期待。治疗还能让她们从Zoom会议和照顾孩子的琐事中解脱出来。她们能够安心前往的地方非常有限。一些患者在做乳房X光检查之前会先来找我咨询。”

在以前,安排整容手术的主要障碍之一是病人无法找到足够的停工时间。而对于有创和无创手术来说,足够长的停工时间都是必要的,因为这些手术在愈合时往往会造成非常明显的肌肤淤青和变色。

“鉴于大多数人现在都在家工作,这个障碍已经解除了,所以更激进的激光照射也不像以前那样令人生畏。”在他位于曼哈顿的私人诊所,皮肤科和激光外科医生达瓦尔•G•巴努萨里这样说道。“我认为,无数次的Zoom会议迫使我们所有人以批判的眼光,极其苛刻地分析自己的容颜。”

巴努萨里指出,他的诊所也更频繁地拒绝某些病人的要求。“作为医生,负责任地服务于患者也是我们的职责所系。如果她们对自己过于苛责或者提出一些不切实际的手术要求,我们需要做正确的事情,并用温和的态度告知她们。”他解释说,“鉴于目前的环境,这种事情确实屡屡发生,所以我们有时不得不出面干预。”

丽莎•古德曼创办的GoodSkin诊所在疫情开始之前就生意兴隆,现在依然如此。他们也不得不拒绝病人的请求。今年3月,该公司在洛杉矶新开设了一家拥有5间治疗室的诊所,但在加州居家令生效之后,这家诊所也像纽约诊所一样即刻关闭。古德曼介绍说,在春季末重新开业后,客户的咨询电话蜂拥而至,纷纷询问一些她们希望在家进行的治疗事宜。但她说,为了保护员工团队的健康和安全,诊所坚决不受理这些请求。

丽莎•卡西尔斯博士是一名整形外科医生,同时也是坐落于比佛利山的卡西尔斯整形外科诊所(Cassileth Plastic Surgery)创始人兼首席执行官。她承认,她原本预计随着疫情的蔓延和经济危机的持续加剧,诊所的生意会一落千丈。她说,在疫情爆发前,诊所的生意很好,因为病人有更多的可支配收入;像吸脂、隆胸和腹部整形这类手术很受欢迎,这让她非常兴奋。

在疫情封锁令于3月份正式实施之后,她的诊所只能对乳腺癌患者保持开放,只有一组骨干人员在诊所为病患提供护理服务,而其他人都在家工作。专门从事面部美容手术的医生根本就无活可干。卡西尔斯说,尽管大多数病人想取消手术,但还有一小部分病人反而要求把手术时间提前,或者疯狂地要求诊所赶在疫情封锁令生效前把她们的手术排上日程。“少数能够接受手术的人现在非常自豪,因为事实证明,当整个世界陷入停滞,疲于应对疫情的时候,确实是进行术后恢复的好时机。”

卡西尔斯解释说:“随着人们越来越多地居家隔离,业务量逐渐增加,患者类型也发生了转变。”这些患者并没有要求速效疗法,也不是心血来潮,凭着一时冲动要求手术。相反,她们往往经过一番深思熟虑,要求进行一些她们多年来一直想做的手术。常见的咨询话题包括为40多岁女性做乳房缩小术、为有十几岁孩子的母亲做腹部整形术,以及移除乳房植入物。

但现在并不是每个人都有多余的时间。卡西尔斯说,自学校复课以来,许多妈妈不得不抽出更多的时间,陪伴孩子进行远程学习,诊所又出现了一轮取消和重新预订的情况。许多患者正在把手术预约时间推迟到明年年初,她们预计(或希望)在不那么忙的时候再进行。“对手术的兴趣增加了,但空闲时间却减少了。”

旁观者的看法

也许并不奇怪的是,在我们都需要戴口罩外出的时候,许多患者把注意力集中在她们眼睛周围的区域。古德曼说,每次治疗报价为1,700美元的眼底填充剂,是目前最受欢迎的手术类型。

“我认为这说明了一个事实:人们做这些治疗是为了对自己的皮肤更有信心,而不是给别人留下深刻印象。在我看来,这种态度真的很棒。”古德曼说。

但如果说口罩让眼睛和额头周围成为面部最明显的部分,那么同样拜口罩所赐,许多患者现在也越来越热衷于完成鼻子或嘴唇附近的整容手术——因为口罩会遮掩这些在术后恢复期间会淤青和变色的面部区域。

“口罩可以掩盖脸部下半部分的任何暂时性瘀伤和疤痕。”哈亚格说,“那些将护理治疗推迟了好几个月的患者,看到这些治疗对自身外表带来巨大改变之后,都迫不及待地想重新开始美容疗程。”

随着新冠疫情的持续,哈亚格断定,出于多方面原因,对整形美容手术的需求量将继续呈现上升势头。其中的一个原因是,即使在一款新冠疫苗获准使用之后,保持社交距离和戴口罩的做法也可能会持续下去。此外,患者也越来越适应通过视频会议软件进行远程医疗和咨询;许多人可能会继续在家工作,即便不是每天如此,至少也会更加频繁地这样做。

卡西尔斯也认为,远程医疗将获得更大的关注。她说,现在跟新病人的首次会面通常是通过视频电话完成的。“有趣的是,这些访问的促成率往往更高一些。”她补充说,“患者告诉我们,医生似乎在全情投入,医患联系也变得更好。”

巴努萨里认为,我们将看到越来越多的整容手术,但总体趋势将朝着更自然的外表和审美方向发展。“我还认为,这比其他任何事情都更有利于健康。就像隔离后首次理发一样,以一种让你快乐的方式照顾自己也是有治疗作用的。”巴努萨里说,“在前疫情时代,我们总是不停地奔波,从一场会议转战另一场会议,从一个活动转战另一场活动。在新冠疫情给我们的生活按下暂停键之后,我们都在更加深入地思考什么才是我们的快乐之源。但愿我们能善待彼此。更重要的是,我们要懂得善待自己。”(财富中文网)

译者:任文科

随着数百万美国人在家工作,并避免与直系亲属和亲密朋友以外的人进行社交活动,媒体频繁报道称,诸如化妆品和服装零售这种依靠人们外出活动而兴旺的行业皆陷入绝境,销售额直线下降。

整形手术诊所的近况却恰恰相反,充沛的宅家时间正在助力美容服务行业繁荣发展,尤其是像肉毒杆菌和皮肤填充剂这类备受欢迎且价格昂贵的皮肤护理服务。

甚至在今年夏天,美国一些地方开始解除疫情封锁之前,隔离在家的人们对整形手术的兴趣就已经开始升温。今年6月,美国整形外科医生协会(ASPS) 对超过1,000名消费者的调查发现,49%没有做过整形手术的人表示,她们愿意在不久的将来接受美容或整形治疗。同月公布的另一项ASPS研究发现,自新冠疫情爆发以来,64%的美国整形外科医生接受的远程医疗咨询次数有所增加。

根据《财富》对美国东西海岸皮肤科医生的访谈,造成这种激增的原因并不只一个,而是一些最平凡但无所不在的疫情期现象的集合:大量的宅家时间、空荡荡的日程安排表、寥寥无几的社交活动、口罩强制令,以及视频通讯软件Zoom的崛起。

皮肤科医生、纽约市上东区第五大道美学中心创始人玛丽•哈亚格博士强调称,这种现象在很大程度上应该归因于她所说的“Zoom效应”。她听到许多新老病患抱怨说,她们在参加视频会议时发现自己长了双下巴、皱纹和眼袋。在她的诊所里,目前最受欢迎的治疗方法包括:专门清除细纹和皱纹的神经调节剂(如肉毒杆菌)、富含血小板血浆疗法(PRP)专门治疗压力导致的脱发、针对所谓“口罩痘”的面部治疗,以及使用CoolSculpting和Emsculpt进行身体塑形(因为大多数健身房和健身中心直到最近仍在关闭)。

哈亚格指出,拥有更多的时间,可能并不是导致手术预约激增的唯一因素;禁足在家的人们也在寻找各种各样的方式来打发时间。

“越来越多的病人在家工作,这使他们可以接受那些需要‘在家躲几天’的治疗。”哈亚格说,“就停工时间而言,这使她们没有什么社交活动需要担心,也能有事可做,更充满期待。治疗还能让她们从Zoom会议和照顾孩子的琐事中解脱出来。她们能够安心前往的地方非常有限。一些患者在做乳房X光检查之前会先来找我咨询。”

在以前,安排整容手术的主要障碍之一是病人无法找到足够的停工时间。而对于有创和无创手术来说,足够长的停工时间都是必要的,因为这些手术在愈合时往往会造成非常明显的肌肤淤青和变色。

“鉴于大多数人现在都在家工作,这个障碍已经解除了,所以更激进的激光照射也不像以前那样令人生畏。”在他位于曼哈顿的私人诊所,皮肤科和激光外科医生达瓦尔•G•巴努萨里这样说道。“我认为,无数次的Zoom会议迫使我们所有人以批判的眼光,极其苛刻地分析自己的容颜。”

巴努萨里指出,他的诊所也更频繁地拒绝某些病人的要求。“作为医生,负责任地服务于患者也是我们的职责所系。如果她们对自己过于苛责或者提出一些不切实际的手术要求,我们需要做正确的事情,并用温和的态度告知她们。”他解释说,“鉴于目前的环境,这种事情确实屡屡发生,所以我们有时不得不出面干预。”

丽莎•古德曼创办的GoodSkin诊所在疫情开始之前就生意兴隆,现在依然如此。他们也不得不拒绝病人的请求。今年3月,该公司在洛杉矶新开设了一家拥有5间治疗室的诊所,但在加州居家令生效之后,这家诊所也像纽约诊所一样即刻关闭。古德曼介绍说,在春季末重新开业后,客户的咨询电话蜂拥而至,纷纷询问一些她们希望在家进行的治疗事宜。但她说,为了保护员工团队的健康和安全,诊所坚决不受理这些请求。

丽莎•卡西尔斯博士是一名整形外科医生,同时也是坐落于比佛利山的卡西尔斯整形外科诊所(Cassileth Plastic Surgery)创始人兼首席执行官。她承认,她原本预计随着疫情的蔓延和经济危机的持续加剧,诊所的生意会一落千丈。她说,在疫情爆发前,诊所的生意很好,因为病人有更多的可支配收入;像吸脂、隆胸和腹部整形这类手术很受欢迎,这让她非常兴奋。

在疫情封锁令于3月份正式实施之后,她的诊所只能对乳腺癌患者保持开放,只有一组骨干人员在诊所为病患提供护理服务,而其他人都在家工作。专门从事面部美容手术的医生根本就无活可干。卡西尔斯说,尽管大多数病人想取消手术,但还有一小部分病人反而要求把手术时间提前,或者疯狂地要求诊所赶在疫情封锁令生效前把她们的手术排上日程。“少数能够接受手术的人现在非常自豪,因为事实证明,当整个世界陷入停滞,疲于应对疫情的时候,确实是进行术后恢复的好时机。”

卡西尔斯解释说:“随着人们越来越多地居家隔离,业务量逐渐增加,患者类型也发生了转变。”这些患者并没有要求速效疗法,也不是心血来潮,凭着一时冲动要求手术。相反,她们往往经过一番深思熟虑,要求进行一些她们多年来一直想做的手术。常见的咨询话题包括为40多岁女性做乳房缩小术、为有十几岁孩子的母亲做腹部整形术,以及移除乳房植入物。

但现在并不是每个人都有多余的时间。卡西尔斯说,自学校复课以来,许多妈妈不得不抽出更多的时间,陪伴孩子进行远程学习,诊所又出现了一轮取消和重新预订的情况。许多患者正在把手术预约时间推迟到明年年初,她们预计(或希望)在不那么忙的时候再进行。“对手术的兴趣增加了,但空闲时间却减少了。”

旁观者的看法

也许并不奇怪的是,在我们都需要戴口罩外出的时候,许多患者把注意力集中在她们眼睛周围的区域。古德曼说,每次治疗报价为1,700美元的眼底填充剂,是目前最受欢迎的手术类型。

“我认为这说明了一个事实:人们做这些治疗是为了对自己的皮肤更有信心,而不是给别人留下深刻印象。在我看来,这种态度真的很棒。”古德曼说。

但如果说口罩让眼睛和额头周围成为面部最明显的部分,那么同样拜口罩所赐,许多患者现在也越来越热衷于完成鼻子或嘴唇附近的整容手术——因为口罩会遮掩这些在术后恢复期间会淤青和变色的面部区域。

“口罩可以掩盖脸部下半部分的任何暂时性瘀伤和疤痕。”哈亚格说,“那些将护理治疗推迟了好几个月的患者,看到这些治疗对自身外表带来巨大改变之后,都迫不及待地想重新开始美容疗程。”

随着新冠疫情的持续,哈亚格断定,出于多方面原因,对整形美容手术的需求量将继续呈现上升势头。其中的一个原因是,即使在一款新冠疫苗获准使用之后,保持社交距离和戴口罩的做法也可能会持续下去。此外,患者也越来越适应通过视频会议软件进行远程医疗和咨询;许多人可能会继续在家工作,即便不是每天如此,至少也会更加频繁地这样做。

卡西尔斯也认为,远程医疗将获得更大的关注。她说,现在跟新病人的首次会面通常是通过视频电话完成的。“有趣的是,这些访问的促成率往往更高一些。”她补充说,“患者告诉我们,医生似乎在全情投入,医患联系也变得更好。”

巴努萨里认为,我们将看到越来越多的整容手术,但总体趋势将朝着更自然的外表和审美方向发展。“我还认为,这比其他任何事情都更有利于健康。就像隔离后首次理发一样,以一种让你快乐的方式照顾自己也是有治疗作用的。”巴努萨里说,“在前疫情时代,我们总是不停地奔波,从一场会议转战另一场会议,从一个活动转战另一场活动。在新冠疫情给我们的生活按下暂停键之后,我们都在更加深入地思考什么才是我们的快乐之源。但愿我们能善待彼此。更重要的是,我们要懂得善待自己。”(财富中文网)

译者:任文科

With millions of Americans working from home and avoiding socializing outside of their immediate family and close friends, much has been written about plummeting sales for industries that thrive on people going out, like makeup, and clothing retailers.

That is not the case for plastic surgery. On the contrary, extra time holing up at home has provided a boom in cosmetic services practices that offer popular—and pricey—skin care treatments like Botox and dermal fillers.

Even before some lockdowns were lifted around the country this summer, interest in plastic surgery was already bubbling over as people were isolating. In June, a survey conducted by the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS) of more than 1,000 consumers found that 49% of those who haven’t had plastic surgery indicated they are open to cosmetic or reconstructive treatment in the near future. Another ASPS study published the same month found that 64% of U.S. plastic surgeons had seen an increase in their telemedicine consultations since before COVID-19 began.

Based on conversations with dermatologists on both coasts, there isn’t just one motivation for this surge, but rather a convergence of some of the pandemic’s most mundane but ubiquitous traits: plenty of time spent at home, empty calendars, less socializing, face mask mandates, and Zoom.

Dr. Marie Hayag, a dermatologist and founder of Fifth Avenue Aesthetics in New York City’s Upper East Side neighborhood, underscores what she calls “the Zoom effect,” explaining she has heard a lot of complaints from new and returning patients about double chins, wrinkles, and eye bags they noticed while videoconferencing. Among the most popular treatments at her clinic right now: neuromodulars (such as Botox) targeting fine lines and wrinkles, platelet-rich plasma (PRP) therapy for hair loss resulting from stress, facial treatment for “maskne,” and body sculpting and contouring with CoolSculpting and Emsculpt (because most gyms and fitness centers have been closed until recently).

Hayag suggests having the extra time itself might not be the only big scheduling factor; after being stuck at home, people are looking for various ways to fill and pass the time, too.

“More patients are working from home and can receive procedures that require them to ‘hide at home’ for a few days,” says Hayag. “There are no social events to worry about in terms of downtime. And it gives them something to do, and they look forward to it. It gives them a break from Zoom meetings and their kids at home. There are limited places they can go to and feel comfortable going. I’ve had patients come to me first before getting their mammograms.”

In the Before Times, one of the primary barriers to scheduling cosmetic surgery was that inability to have downtime, a necessity for both invasive and noninvasive procedures that often result in very visible bruising and discoloration while healing.

“Now that most people are working from home, that barrier has been lifted, and so more aggressive lasering isn’t as daunting as it once was,” says Dr. Dhaval G. Bhanusali, a dermatologist and laser surgeon at Hudson Dermatology and Laser Surgery, his private practice in Manhattan. “I think the countless Zoom meetings have forced us all to critically analyze ourselves, way more than we probably should.”

Bhanusali notes his practice has also turned down certain patient requests more frequently. “As physicians, it is our duty to also serve our patients responsibly, and if they are being overly critical of themselves or unrealistic, we need to do the right thing and gently let them know,” he explains. “Given the current environment, that does happen quite a bit, so we have to sometimes step in and intervene.”

Business at GoodSkin Clinics, founded by Lisa Goodman, was thriving before the pandemic started and still is. And they too have had to turn down patient requests. The company’s new Los Angeles clinic with five treatment rooms opened in March, but then closed as soon as California stay-at-home orders took hold, as did its New York office. After reopening in late spring, Goodman says the clinics received an influx of requests from clients inquiring about treatments they wanted performed at home, but she says they were adamant in not entertaining these to protect the health and safety of her team.

Dr. Lisa Cassileth, a plastic and reconstructive surgeon as well as founder and CEO of Cassileth Plastic Surgery in Beverly Hills, admits she expected business to drop as the pandemic and subsequent economic crisis continued. Pre-pandemic, Cassileth says business was good as patients had more disposable income, and were excited to do popular procedures like liposuction, breast implants, and tummy tucks.

After shutdown measures went into place in March, her facility was able to stay open only for breast cancer patients, with a skeleton crew on-site for patient care while everyone else worked from home. Doctors specializing in facial aesthetic surgery did not work at all. Although most patients wanted to cancel their procedures, Cassileth says a small percentage instead moved their procedures up or frantically tried to put them on the schedule right before the shutdown. “The few that were able to undergo their procedures are very proud of themselves today, as it turned out it was a great time to recover as the world was so separated and distracted,” she says.

“As people became more in touch with themselves at home, business increased and the patient type shifted,” Cassileth explains. Instead of quick fixes and impulse procedures, patients are asking for procedures they have thought about and wanted for years. Breast reductions for 40-plus-year-olds, abdominoplasty on mothers with teenagers, and breast implant removals are common consultation topics.

But not everyone has extra time these days. Since the school year started, Cassileth says there has been another round of cancellations and rebookings as many moms have increased responsibilities with kids doing remote learning. So they’re putting off their appointments until early next year when they expect (or hope) to be less busy. “The interest is up, but the free time is down.”

In the eye of the beholder

Perhaps not surprisingly, many patients have homed in on the area around their eyes as we’re all out and about wearing face masks. Goodman says under-eye fillers, quoted at $1,700 per treatment, are a top draw right now.

“I think that speaks to the fact that people are doing these treatments to feel more confident in their own skin versus impressing others, which is really great to see in my opinion,” Goodman says.

But if the most visible part of the face is now around the eyes and forehead because of face masks, it’s also thanks to face masks that cosmetic surgery patients are increasingly eager to get work done around their nose or lips—precisely because they’ll remain hidden while bruised and discolored during recovery.

“Masks can cover any temporary bruises and marks on the lower part of the face,” Hayag says. “Patients that delayed their maintenance treatments for months were desperate to begin anew their beauty regimen after seeing what a difference it made to their appearance.”

As the pandemic continues, Hayag posits that the upward trend for cosmetic procedures will continue for a multitude of reasons, including that the practices of social distancing and wearing face masks will likely continue even after a vaccine for COVID-19 has been approved. Patients have also become more comfortable with telemedicine and consults via videoconferencing software, and many people will probably continue to work from home, at least more frequently if not daily.

Cassileth is also expecting a greater focus on telemedicine, and says now the first meeting with a new patient is often done through a video call. “Interestingly, the closure rate on these visits is higher,” she adds. “Patients have told us that the doctor seems to be fully paying attention, and there is a better connection.”

Bhanusali thinks we are going to see more and more cosmetic procedures, but the trend will be toward a more natural look and aesthetic. “I also think this will fall more into wellness than anything else. Similar to that first haircut after quarantine, there is something therapeutic about taking care of yourself in a manner that makes you happy,” Bhanusali says. “In the pre-COVID world, we were always on the go and running from meeting to meeting, event to event. With this life pause, we’ve all thought more and more about what makes us happy. My hope is that we are all kinder to each other and most importantly, ourselves.”

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