新冠疫情极大地改变了美国民众的购物习惯,如今人们更愿意把钱花在购买生活必需品上,即便有可自由支配的资金,也更倾向于用于房屋装修或购买适合在家工作或休闲时穿着的衣物。
在此背景之下,购物热情回升,尤其是萨克斯第五大道(Saks Fifth Avenue)这样高端零售企业的销售出现回暖似乎显得有些有违常理。毕竟,就连萨克斯第五大道的总裁马克·梅特里克都对《财富》说:“我们销售的东西都算不上必需品,哪怕没有疫情也算不上必需品。”
不过据梅特里克表示,萨克斯第五大道的业务确实已经开始回暖。与诺德斯特龙、梅西百货旗下的布鲁明黛百货相比,萨克斯第五大道的定位更为高端。作为哈德逊湾公司旗下企业,为应对此次危机,萨克斯第五大道采取了缩短营业时间、取消或推迟订单等举措,该公司还将重新评估自己的产品种类,采取多种措施,比如减少男装产品占比等。
今夏以来,由于线上销售火爆,萨克斯第五大道的可比销售略有增长。股市的强劲表现推高了最富有人群的消费欲望,也给这家奢侈品零售商带来了利好。而且萨克斯第五大道的情况并非个案:诺德斯特龙的首席执行官在上月表示,他们的高端设计师业务业绩“极为出色”,而布鲁明黛的高管在9月也说,奢侈品业务自己公司销售额中的占比已经从20%增加到了30%,同样优于其他业务。
梅特里克本人对奢侈品销售的出色表现感到惊讶,他有些夸张又不失感激的问道:“克里斯提·鲁布托大卖,真的假的?什么时候穿?”
在《财富》杂志的访谈中,他对萨克斯第五大道管控疫情对业务影响的方法进行了介绍。为方便阅读,内容有所删改。
《财富》:萨克斯第五大道奢侈品销售业务表现相对良好的原因是什么?
马克·梅特里克:关键在于时尚和平衡。你可以想一下那些最近经常讨论自己生意的其他奢侈品公司,他们销售的定制男装比我们要多得多。
当前,我们销售最好的品类包括男女鞋靴、男士运动服装、皮具、香水等。大家现在每天都跟同样的面孔待在一起,喷点香水会让人心情愉悦。
消费模式的转变对萨克斯第五大道的业务,尤其是在吸引新客户方面起到了怎样的帮助?
以那些梦想拥有奢侈品的消费者为例,对他们而言,我们就是一种体验式消费,是一种爽心美食。每隔一段时间,他们就犒劳一下自己。疫情期间,爽心美食替代了健康食品的位置。而我们就是时尚界的爽心美食。
疫情对萨克斯第五大道规划、下发订单的方式有哪些影响?
奢侈品的交货周期一般都很长,比如3月交货的产品可能在数月前已经收了货款。我们通过与品牌合作伙伴合作尽可能地解决了这一问题。
奢侈品的交货周期与消费者的实际需求严重脱节。我一直搞不懂,为什么要在天气转暖时打折促销春、夏款式的产品,给7月到货的大衣、羊绒衫等产品腾出货架。
所以今年我们决定按下“暂停”键,推迟产品撤换的日期,把那些还没有做出来的产品往后推。这样,在6月开业时,产品与季节正好匹配,打折情况大为减少。
未来几季有什么计划?
我们将更认真地审视晚礼服及定制男装业务,并降低这两项业务在我司业务中的占比。300人规模的“黑领带”晚宴和大型婚礼可能还得过段时间才会重新出现。
看到Jos. A Bank、Men’s Wearhouse或者Brooks Brothers(已经申请破产)等品牌, 你不禁会想,这门生意未来究竟会走向何方?我们有非常优秀的品牌合作伙伴,他们不仅生产西装,也生产运动服。
在许多游客的旅游景点列表中,你们的纽约旗舰店都榜上有名,而且排名靠前。不过今年国际旅游业一直萎靡不振。据分析师估计,那家店的产出占你们总销售额的20%左右,现在生意怎么样?
美国人现在也不出国旅行了,所以我们还有一定数量的客户。我们那些高端客户以往每年夏天都会去巴黎购物,现在他们可以来纽约了。
据你介绍,地区门店的生意都很好,比如阿拉巴马州的伯明翰和北卡罗来纳州的罗利,这是为什么呢?
美国其他地区业务的表现非常好,我们认为这是因为这些地区的民众以往经常前往其他地区,但现在无法像以往那样频繁出行了,比如亚特兰大、休斯顿和费城等城市的业务增速都非常快。某些情况下,地区门店的业绩会更好。伯明翰的消费者现在不会去亚特兰大购物了。
随着数字化转型的不断推进,对萨克斯第五大道而言,规模较小的地区门店还值得经营吗?
小型门店经营负担也较小。构建起线上生态后,每开一家线下门店,线上生态的覆盖范围就会扩大一些,线上交易量也会随之增加。在罗利开一家门店可能不会给你带来上亿美元的营收,不过你会发现整个线上生态的规模会因之而不断成长。
近年来,萨克斯第五大道在旗舰店项目上已经投入了2.5亿美元。考虑到疫情背景下的社交疏离政策以及美妆产品销售方面的限制,这种投入值得么?
在我看来,装潢考究的旗舰店体现了我们品牌的格调。对我们的消费者而言,剧院无疑具有重要意义,但是它现在重要么?不过我们肯定会找到方法,使其再次变得特别起来,这一点是毫无疑问的。(财富中文网)
译者:梁宇
审校:夏林
新冠疫情极大地改变了美国民众的购物习惯,如今人们更愿意把钱花在购买生活必需品上,即便有可自由支配的资金,也更倾向于用于房屋装修或购买适合在家工作或休闲时穿着的衣物。
在此背景之下,购物热情回升,尤其是萨克斯第五大道(Saks Fifth Avenue)这样高端零售企业的销售出现回暖似乎显得有些有违常理。毕竟,就连萨克斯第五大道的总裁马克·梅特里克都对《财富》说:“我们销售的东西都算不上必需品,哪怕没有疫情也算不上必需品。”
不过据梅特里克表示,萨克斯第五大道的业务确实已经开始回暖。与诺德斯特龙、梅西百货旗下的布鲁明黛百货相比,萨克斯第五大道的定位更为高端。作为哈德逊湾公司旗下企业,为应对此次危机,萨克斯第五大道采取了缩短营业时间、取消或推迟订单等举措,该公司还将重新评估自己的产品种类,采取多种措施,比如减少男装产品占比等。
今夏以来,由于线上销售火爆,萨克斯第五大道的可比销售略有增长。股市的强劲表现推高了最富有人群的消费欲望,也给这家奢侈品零售商带来了利好。而且萨克斯第五大道的情况并非个案:诺德斯特龙的首席执行官在上月表示,他们的高端设计师业务业绩“极为出色”,而布鲁明黛的高管在9月也说,奢侈品业务自己公司销售额中的占比已经从20%增加到了30%,同样优于其他业务。
梅特里克本人对奢侈品销售的出色表现感到惊讶,他有些夸张又不失感激的问道:“克里斯提·鲁布托大卖,真的假的?什么时候穿?”
在《财富》杂志的访谈中,他对萨克斯第五大道管控疫情对业务影响的方法进行了介绍。为方便阅读,内容有所删改。
《财富》:萨克斯第五大道奢侈品销售业务表现相对良好的原因是什么?
马克·梅特里克:关键在于时尚和平衡。你可以想一下那些最近经常讨论自己生意的其他奢侈品公司,他们销售的定制男装比我们要多得多。
当前,我们销售最好的品类包括男女鞋靴、男士运动服装、皮具、香水等。大家现在每天都跟同样的面孔待在一起,喷点香水会让人心情愉悦。
消费模式的转变对萨克斯第五大道的业务,尤其是在吸引新客户方面起到了怎样的帮助?
以那些梦想拥有奢侈品的消费者为例,对他们而言,我们就是一种体验式消费,是一种爽心美食。每隔一段时间,他们就犒劳一下自己。疫情期间,爽心美食替代了健康食品的位置。而我们就是时尚界的爽心美食。
疫情对萨克斯第五大道规划、下发订单的方式有哪些影响?
奢侈品的交货周期一般都很长,比如3月交货的产品可能在数月前已经收了货款。我们通过与品牌合作伙伴合作尽可能地解决了这一问题。
奢侈品的交货周期与消费者的实际需求严重脱节。我一直搞不懂,为什么要在天气转暖时打折促销春、夏款式的产品,给7月到货的大衣、羊绒衫等产品腾出货架。
所以今年我们决定按下“暂停”键,推迟产品撤换的日期,把那些还没有做出来的产品往后推。这样,在6月开业时,产品与季节正好匹配,打折情况大为减少。
未来几季有什么计划?
我们将更认真地审视晚礼服及定制男装业务,并降低这两项业务在我司业务中的占比。300人规模的“黑领带”晚宴和大型婚礼可能还得过段时间才会重新出现。
看到Jos. A Bank、Men’s Wearhouse或者Brooks Brothers(已经申请破产)等品牌, 你不禁会想,这门生意未来究竟会走向何方?我们有非常优秀的品牌合作伙伴,他们不仅生产西装,也生产运动服。
在许多游客的旅游景点列表中,你们的纽约旗舰店都榜上有名,而且排名靠前。不过今年国际旅游业一直萎靡不振。据分析师估计,那家店的产出占你们总销售额的20%左右,现在生意怎么样?
美国人现在也不出国旅行了,所以我们还有一定数量的客户。我们那些高端客户以往每年夏天都会去巴黎购物,现在他们可以来纽约了。
据你介绍,地区门店的生意都很好,比如阿拉巴马州的伯明翰和北卡罗来纳州的罗利,这是为什么呢?
美国其他地区业务的表现非常好,我们认为这是因为这些地区的民众以往经常前往其他地区,但现在无法像以往那样频繁出行了,比如亚特兰大、休斯顿和费城等城市的业务增速都非常快。某些情况下,地区门店的业绩会更好。伯明翰的消费者现在不会去亚特兰大购物了。
随着数字化转型的不断推进,对萨克斯第五大道而言,规模较小的地区门店还值得经营吗?
小型门店经营负担也较小。构建起线上生态后,每开一家线下门店,线上生态的覆盖范围就会扩大一些,线上交易量也会随之增加。在罗利开一家门店可能不会给你带来上亿美元的营收,不过你会发现整个线上生态的规模会因之而不断成长。
近年来,萨克斯第五大道在旗舰店项目上已经投入了2.5亿美元。考虑到疫情背景下的社交疏离政策以及美妆产品销售方面的限制,这种投入值得么?
在我看来,装潢考究的旗舰店体现了我们品牌的格调。对我们的消费者而言,剧院无疑具有重要意义,但是它现在重要么?不过我们肯定会找到方法,使其再次变得特别起来,这一点是毫无疑问的。(财富中文网)
译者:梁宇
审校:夏林
The coronavirus pandemic has radically changed American shopping habits, with consumers shifting more spending to essentials. And when they do have discretionary money, it has tended to go to home improvements or clothing suited to work-from-home and lounging.
So it might seem counterintuitive that some stability has returned to shopping, particularly at high-end retailers like Saks Fifth Avenue. After all, as Saks president Marc Metrick, tells Fortune, “Nothing we sell is essential, even when there is not a pandemic.”
And yet business has ticked up at Saks, which skews higher-end than rivals like Nordstrom and Macy’s Bloomingdale’s, Metrick says. Saks, owned by Hudson’s Bay Co., managed the crisis by cutting store hours, canceling some orders and delaying others, and will be reassessing its assortment with moves such as dialing back its men’s suits selection.
Saks has seen modest comparable sales increases since the summer, driven by its soaring online business. The retailer has also tapped into a desire among the most affluent, helped by a strong stock market, to splurge. And it is not alone: Nordstrom’s CEO last month said that the chain’s high-end designer business was doing “pretty darn well,” while at Bloomingdale’s luxury is now 30% of sales, up from 20% and doing better than the rest of the business, executives said in September.
Metrick himself professes some surprise at luxury’s performance. “Christian Louboutin pumps, really? When are you wearing those?” he asks—rhetorically but with gratitude.
He spoke with Fortune to discuss how Saks is managing the pandemic’s effects on its business. Answers have been edited for clarity and brevity.
Fortune: Why is luxury spending at Saks holding up relatively well?
Marc Metrick: It’s all about fashion and about having the right balance. If you think about the other luxury players talking about their business these days, they sell a lot more men’s tailored suits than we do.
Our top-performing businesses right now are men’s footwear, men’s sportswear, women’s footwear, leather goods, fragrances. Everyone wants to smell good because they’re hanging around the same people all day.
How are shifting spending patterns helping Saks, particularly among shoppers newer to the chain?
Take aspirational shoppers: We are their experiential spend. We’re comfort food. Every once in a while, they treat themselves. During a pandemic, comfort food is blowing healthy food off the shelves. We are the comfort food of fashion.
How has the pandemic changed how Saks plans and places orders?
There are such long lead times in luxury—the goods that were coming in March were bought months and months before. We got out of it as much as we could, and we worked with our brand partners.
The luxury delivery cycle is so off from actual consumer demand. It never made sense to me, because by the time it gets warm, we mark [late spring and summer items] down to make room for things coming in July like coats and cashmere sweaters.
So this year, we said, let’s take a pause, let’s delay the product, let’s delay stuff that’s not been made yet. So by time we opened in June, product was seasonally appropriate, and there was less marking down.
And what about the upcoming seasons?
We are taking a much harder look at our evening dress business, our tailored men’s suit business, and de-emphasizing those. We’re probably a little while away from 300-person black tie galas and big weddings being back.
You look at Jos. A Bank, Men’s Wearhouse, or Brooks Brothers [which have sought bankruptcy protection], and you say, where was this business heading anyway? We have great brand partners that make suits but also make sportswear.
Your New York City flagship is high on the list of attractions for many visitors to the city. But this year, international tourism has collapsed. How is business at the store—which analysts estimate generates 20% or so of your total sales?
People aren’t traveling abroad either, so we have a certain level of captive clientele. At the higher end of our portfolio, where they used to go to Paris every summer shopping, they can do it New York now.
You say business is strong in your regional stores, like those in Birmingham, Ala., and Raleigh, N.C., Why might that be?
We’re seeing very healthy business in other markets in the U.S. where we think some of these people were moving around more, and now they’re not as much, like Atlanta, Houston, and Philadelphia, which have seen outsized growth. In some cases the regional stores are doing better. People in Birmingham aren’t going to Atlanta to shop.
Are smaller regional stores worth it for Saks, with the shift to digital?
The smaller stores don’t have a heavy load for operating. With the online ecosystem, when you open a store, the digital footprint expands, and you do more volume online. When you open a store in Raleigh, the store might not do hundreds of millions of dollars, but you notice you get a pickup in the digital footprint.
Saks spent $250 million on its flagship in recent years. Given the social distancing imposed by the pandemic and the restrictions on things like how to sell beauty products, was it worth it?
I believe that having a flagship store that is beautiful speaks to our brand. Theater to our consumer is going to be very important. Is it important right now? But we are going to find a way to make this very special again, there is no doubt.