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聚焦内在美:一家可持续服装企业的经营之道

RACHEL KING
2021-10-27

公司销售各种可持续产品,目的是通过为顾客提供一个舒适、包容的环境,帮助顾客重新建立自我形象和培养社区意识。

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1996年从菲律宾搬到美国华盛顿哥伦比亚特区后,安妮-玛丽·约翰逊经历了重重磨难。情感和身体创伤多年来摧毁了她的自我形象,让她觉得自己一文不值。

通过不断进行自我再发现,约翰逊经常分享自己的故事来帮助其他女性,在这个过程中她得到治愈并找到人生目标。她发现这样做既让她感到释怀又充满力量,她开始意识到“苦难也是一种恩典。”

后来,约翰逊在2018年创办了线上服装和生活方式品牌Bitter Grace,之后又在华盛顿特区的国会山街区开设了公司的第一家旗舰店。

约翰逊特意选择销售各种可持续产品,目的是通过为顾客提供一个舒适、包容的环境,帮助顾客重新建立自我形象和培养社区意识。公司将10%的销售额捐赠给了一家致力于帮助家庭暴力和侵害幸存者的非营利组织Women’s HQ。

最近,《财富》杂志就Bitter Grace的前期经营状况和未来规划独家对话其创始人安妮-玛丽·约翰逊。

Bitter Grace创始人安妮-玛丽·约翰逊。图片来源:Bitter Grace

为清晰起见,以下采访内容经过精简和略微编辑。

《财富》杂志:能否简单介绍一下你在创立Bitter Grace之前的职业背景?

约翰逊:我在马里兰州的一家软件公司工作了六年,担任认证项目经理一职。在那之前,我一直从事政府咨询工作,2012年读研期间,我曾在白宫和国务院工作过。

什么原因促使你创立自己的品牌?Bitter Grace背后的灵感来源是什么?

我始终希望以时尚为媒介将各行各业的女性团结起来,用服装来提醒女性她们具有得天独厚的天赋,她们能够向全世界展现与生俱来的美和力量。2019年,我们在华盛顿特区举办了自我关怀冥想活动,这场活动之后我开始意识到建立一家不仅仅涉及服装领域的公司至关重要;同时我们还应该找到一种内外统一的生活方式,帮助我们将外在的自我(展现给世界的自我)和内在的自我(内心渴望成为的自我)结合起来,从而活出最真实、最有魅力的自我。

目前,Bitter Grace正践行这一承诺以及两大主要支柱理念——社区和可持续性,得益于这两大理念,我们才能圆满完成使命。诚信与真实是我们的主要核心价值观之一,也是我们为了让世界更加美好所采取的每一个决定和行动背后的驱动力。我们的Inner Elegance社区平台有助于提升自我形象、强化独立和个性化的造型体验,通过这个平台我们帮助女性激发自身力量、享受具有无限可能性的生活,让她们变得更加勇敢和自信。

Bitter Grace最新发布的可持续运动休闲系列。Bitter Grace总部位于华盛顿特区,是一个由女性和有色人种经营的服装和生活方式品牌。

图片由Bitter Grace提供

一开始Bitter Grace只做线上业务,去年开设第一家店面后转向实体店经营。抛开实体店经营状况不谈,为什么会朝着这个方向发展?此外,2020年疫情期间,国家鼓励消费者待在家里减少外出购物,在这种情况下开设一家实体店是什么感受?

我认为我们需要创造更多空间,激励人们做更多事情、享受多样化生活;虽然我们的才华时常被埋没,但我们每一个人都有独一无二的非凡天赋,能够在这个世界上发挥作用、作出积极改变并产生影响。在我为我们的实体店空间签订租约之前,我内心已经有了一个想法,那就是创造和建设一个培养内在美和社区意识的空间,这个诱人的空间提醒着人们,只要敢信,一切皆有可能。Bitter Grace就是一个兼容并包的空间,这个空间能够培养和建立有意义的联系,从而推动我们进步。

但是创业绝不是易事,尤其是在疫情期间,我们面临更多的复杂性和挑战,开设旗舰店是我做过的最佳决定。我坚信,我们应该在恰当的时间吸引合适的消费者并抓住机遇。2020年10月中旬我们开设了旗舰店,有很多值得庆祝和感激的事情,在不到三个月时间内我们创造了超过5万美元的收入(不包括网店的销售额)。旗舰店的开设为我们奠定了基础,使我们能够持续经营到2021年,并建立一个有机、真实的顾客群。目前我们的顾客群仍在不断发展壮大。以旗舰店为立足点,我们建立了与我们的使命和价值观相契合的适当伙伴关系,建设了人才队伍,并有机会启动了我们的第一个产品系列的开发创意过程。我们的可持续运动休闲装胶囊系列“每日典雅”(“Elevated Every Day”)于9月7日首发。

“每日典雅”运动休闲系列是在加州研发和以可持续方式制作的,这个系列有很多必不可少的百搭小法宝,帮你轻松度过多个季节。图片来源:Bitter Grace

Bitter Grace最近推出了运动休闲产品线。早在疫情前几年,有人可能认为运动休闲只不过是经济大衰退之后的昙花一现而已。但随着很多人经历了居家办公的巨大转变之后,似乎这种风格还会持续下去。你为什么认为消费者会青睐于运动休闲风格?

运动休闲装非常简约。疫情期间,人们意识到他们不想再放弃舒适度了(包括我本人在内)。“每日典雅”胶囊系列旨为每日清晨的穿搭增添乐趣和轻松感,赋予女性力量,仅靠几套基础款衣服就能彰显典雅精致,几分钟内让你倍感愉悦舒适。

我们的单品自始至终都经过精心研发和制作,采用亲肤又环保的优质柔软面料。这些单品不单是你每日要穿的黑色瑜伽裤;而是代表典雅的穿衣风格,适合任何场合,时隔多年也不会过时。在Bitter Grace,我们提倡可持续生活,鼓励顾客把钱花在让他们感到愉悦舒适的单品,以及能与他们一同进步、伴他们一生的单品。

展望未来,五年后你想看到Bitter Grace发展成什么样?你想如何发展品牌和产品线?

Bitter Grace始终以信念和宗旨为行动指南,现在我已经看到它获得了很大的发展和进步,我非常期待它未来的发展。我对它的未来非常乐观。我们正在初步扩大产品系列,希望明年能够推出新的系列。我的目标是慢慢扩大产品系列,保证更具包容性和可持续性。我还想为Bitter Grace设立多个门店,以便我们能够持续拓展业务范围,让世界变得更加宜居。(财富中文网)

翻译:郝秀

审校:汪皓

1996年从菲律宾搬到美国华盛顿哥伦比亚特区后,安妮-玛丽·约翰逊经历了重重磨难。情感和身体创伤多年来摧毁了她的自我形象,让她觉得自己一文不值。

通过不断进行自我再发现,约翰逊经常分享自己的故事来帮助其他女性,在这个过程中她得到治愈并找到人生目标。她发现这样做既让她感到释怀又充满力量,她开始意识到“苦难也是一种恩典。”

后来,约翰逊在2018年创办了线上服装和生活方式品牌Bitter Grace,之后又在华盛顿特区的国会山街区开设了公司的第一家旗舰店。

约翰逊特意选择销售各种可持续产品,目的是通过为顾客提供一个舒适、包容的环境,帮助顾客重新建立自我形象和培养社区意识。公司将10%的销售额捐赠给了一家致力于帮助家庭暴力和侵害幸存者的非营利组织Women’s HQ。

最近,《财富》杂志就Bitter Grace的前期经营状况和未来规划独家对话其创始人安妮-玛丽·约翰逊。

为清晰起见,以下采访内容经过精简和略微编辑。

《财富》杂志:能否简单介绍一下你在创立Bitter Grace之前的职业背景?

约翰逊:我在马里兰州的一家软件公司工作了六年,担任认证项目经理一职。在那之前,我一直从事政府咨询工作,2012年读研期间,我曾在白宫和国务院工作过。

什么原因促使你创立自己的品牌?Bitter Grace背后的灵感来源是什么?

我始终希望以时尚为媒介将各行各业的女性团结起来,用服装来提醒女性她们具有得天独厚的天赋,她们能够向全世界展现与生俱来的美和力量。2019年,我们在华盛顿特区举办了自我关怀冥想活动,这场活动之后我开始意识到建立一家不仅仅涉及服装领域的公司至关重要;同时我们还应该找到一种内外统一的生活方式,帮助我们将外在的自我(展现给世界的自我)和内在的自我(内心渴望成为的自我)结合起来,从而活出最真实、最有魅力的自我。

目前,Bitter Grace正践行这一承诺以及两大主要支柱理念——社区和可持续性,得益于这两大理念,我们才能圆满完成使命。诚信与真实是我们的主要核心价值观之一,也是我们为了让世界更加美好所采取的每一个决定和行动背后的驱动力。我们的Inner Elegance社区平台有助于提升自我形象、强化独立和个性化的造型体验,通过这个平台我们帮助女性激发自身力量、享受具有无限可能性的生活,让她们变得更加勇敢和自信。

Bitter Grace最新发布的可持续运动休闲系列。Bitter Grace总部位于华盛顿特区,是一个由女性和有色人种经营的服装和生活方式品牌。

图片由Bitter Grace提供

一开始Bitter Grace只做线上业务,去年开设第一家店面后转向实体店经营。抛开实体店经营状况不谈,为什么会朝着这个方向发展?此外,2020年疫情期间,国家鼓励消费者待在家里减少外出购物,在这种情况下开设一家实体店是什么感受?

我认为我们需要创造更多空间,激励人们做更多事情、享受多样化生活;虽然我们的才华时常被埋没,但我们每一个人都有独一无二的非凡天赋,能够在这个世界上发挥作用、作出积极改变并产生影响。在我为我们的实体店空间签订租约之前,我内心已经有了一个想法,那就是创造和建设一个培养内在美和社区意识的空间,这个诱人的空间提醒着人们,只要敢信,一切皆有可能。Bitter Grace就是一个兼容并包的空间,这个空间能够培养和建立有意义的联系,从而推动我们进步。

但是创业绝不是易事,尤其是在疫情期间,我们面临更多的复杂性和挑战,开设旗舰店是我做过的最佳决定。我坚信,我们应该在恰当的时间吸引合适的消费者并抓住机遇。2020年10月中旬我们开设了旗舰店,有很多值得庆祝和感激的事情,在不到三个月时间内我们创造了超过5万美元的收入(不包括网店的销售额)。旗舰店的开设为我们奠定了基础,使我们能够持续经营到2021年,并建立一个有机、真实的顾客群。目前我们的顾客群仍在不断发展壮大。以旗舰店为立足点,我们建立了与我们的使命和价值观相契合的适当伙伴关系,建设了人才队伍,并有机会启动了我们的第一个产品系列的开发创意过程。我们的可持续运动休闲装胶囊系列“每日典雅”(“Elevated Every Day”)于9月7日首发。

Bitter Grace最近推出了运动休闲产品线。早在疫情前几年,有人可能认为运动休闲只不过是经济大衰退之后的昙花一现而已。但随着很多人经历了居家办公的巨大转变之后,似乎这种风格还会持续下去。你为什么认为消费者会青睐于运动休闲风格?

运动休闲装非常简约。疫情期间,人们意识到他们不想再放弃舒适度了(包括我本人在内)。“每日典雅”胶囊系列旨为每日清晨的穿搭增添乐趣和轻松感,赋予女性力量,仅靠几套基础款衣服就能彰显典雅精致,几分钟内让你倍感愉悦舒适。

我们的单品自始至终都经过精心研发和制作,采用亲肤又环保的优质柔软面料。这些单品不单是你每日要穿的黑色瑜伽裤;而是代表典雅的穿衣风格,适合任何场合,时隔多年也不会过时。在Bitter Grace,我们提倡可持续生活,鼓励顾客把钱花在让他们感到愉悦舒适的单品,以及能与他们一同进步、伴他们一生的单品。

展望未来,五年后你想看到Bitter Grace发展成什么样?你想如何发展品牌和产品线?

Bitter Grace始终以信念和宗旨为行动指南,现在我已经看到它获得了很大的发展和进步,我非常期待它未来的发展。我对它的未来非常乐观。我们正在初步扩大产品系列,希望明年能够推出新的系列。我的目标是慢慢扩大产品系列,保证更具包容性和可持续性。我还想为Bitter Grace设立多个门店,以便我们能够持续拓展业务范围,让世界变得更加宜居。(财富中文网)

翻译:郝秀

审校:汪皓

After moving to the Washington, D.C., area from the Philippines in 1996, Anne Marie Johnson experienced a variety of hardships. Emotional and physical trauma left her with feelings of unworthiness, wrecking her self-image for many years.

Through a lot of work on self-rediscovery, Johnson found healing and purpose by helping other women, often by sharing her own story, which she found to be both liberating and empowering, coming to the realization that "through bitterness comes grace."

Johnson subsequently opened Bitter Grace in 2018 as an online-only clothing and lifestyle brand, followed by the opening of the company's first flagship store in D.C.'s Capitol Hill neighborhood.

Johnson intentionally selects every sustainable product carried, with the intent of assisting customers rebuild their self-image and foster a sense of community by offering a welcoming and inclusive environment. And 10% of sales are donated to Women’s HQ, a nonprofit working with survivors of domestic violence and assault.

Fortune recently spoke with founder Anne Marie Johnson about Bitter Grace's first few years in business and plans for its future.

The following interview has been condensed and lightly edited for clarity.

Fortune: Can you share a bit about your professional background prior to launching Bitter Grace?

Johnson: I was a certified project manager for a software company in Maryland for six years. And before that, I was in government consulting and worked at the White House and State Department while I was in graduate school in 2012.

What prompted you to start your own label? What's the inspiration behind Bitter Grace?

I've always had a desire to use fashion as a medium to unite women of all walks of life, to use clothing as a way to remind women of their unique gifts, and the innate beauty and power they can offer to the world. After our self-care retreat in Washington, D.C., in 2019, I realized that it was important to build a company beyond clothing; a holistic and lifestyle approach that helps us align our external self (the person we show to the world) with our inner self (the person we envision ourselves to be) in order to be our most authentic and magnetic selves.

Bitter Grace today represents this commitment, along with two other main pillars—community and sustainability—that bring our mission to full circle. Integrity and authenticity are some of our primary core values that are driving forces behind every decision and action we take to make the world a better place for the collective. Through our Inner Elegance community platform that helps elevate the self-image and our unique and personalized styling experiences, we help women feel bolder and more confident to step into their power and live a life of limitless possibilities.

The newly launched sustainable athleisure collection by Bitter Grace, a D.C.-based, woman- and POC-owned clothing and lifestyle brand.

Courtesy of Bitter Grace

Bitter Grace started out as an online-only operation, and then shifted toward brick-and-mortar with the first store opening last year. Why the progression in that direction—let alone to bricks and mortar at all anymore? Also, what was it like opening a brick-and-mortar location in 2020 as so many consumers were encouraged to stay home amid the pandemic?

I believe we need to create more spaces that inspire people to do more and be more; each of us has incredible and unique gifts—oftentimes, untapped talents—to serve, to create positive change, and be impactful in this world. Before I signed the lease for our space, I already had an inner knowing to create and build a space that fosters beauty and community, an inviting space that reminds people that anything is possible if you believe it. Bitter Grace is an inclusive space for everyone, a space to forge and build meaningful connections that move us forward.

While starting a business is never an easy task, and especially in the middle of a pandemic that added a layer of complexity and challenges, opening our flagship store was the best decision I ever made. I truly believe in attracting the right people and opportunities at the right time you need them. We opened in mid-October 2020 and had a lot to celebrate and be grateful for, generating a revenue of over $50,000 in less than three months, not including our online store sales. It allowed us to create a foundation that carried us into 2021 and build an organic and authentic customer base that continues to grow and shine today. It allowed us to plant the seeds, creating the appropriate partnerships that align with our mission and values, building our team, and the opportunity to be part of the creative process of developing our very first collection, our sustainable athleisure wear capsule collection "Elevated Every Day," which launched on Sept. 7.

Bitter Grace recently launched an athleisure line. A few years ago—well before the pandemic—it might have been argued that athleisure was just a passing fad after the Great Recession. But after the huge shift for so many people working from home, it looks like the style is here to stay. Why do you think consumers gravitate toward athleisure?

Athleisure wear is easy. During the pandemic, people realized that they didn't want to compromise comfort anymore (myself included). The Elevated Every Day capsule collection is to make dressing more fun and effortless in the mornings, to empower women that you can look elevated and refined by simply wearing basics that make you feel good and comfortable within a few minutes.

Our pieces were developed and made intentionally from the start with quality and buttery-soft fabrics that are great for your skin and great for the planet. These pieces are not your everyday black yoga pants; they are elevated styles that are great for any occasion and that transition with you through many years. At Bitter Grace, we promote sustainable living, encouraging our customers to invest in pieces that make you feel good and comfortable and pieces that will evolve with you and last a lifetime.

Looking forward, where do you want to see Bitter Grace in five years? How do you want to grow the brand and product line?

I already see so much growth and progress with Bitter Grace today, doing things with faith and purpose, and it's exciting to see. I'm more optimistic about the future. We are in the preliminary works of expanding our collection and hope to launch sometime next year. My goal is to slowly expand our collection to be more inclusive and sustainable. I also envision multiple locations for Bitter Grace so we can continue to broaden our reach and make the world a better place to live.

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