我超爱鹰嘴豆泥,所以过去两年我几乎每天午餐都少不了它。鹰嘴豆泥必不可少,在Zoom上开视频会议的间隙,每次我去厨房找吃的,都会带一些鹰嘴豆泥。我有时候会搭配嫩胡萝卜,心情好的时候会切一根黄瓜。偶尔会把鹰嘴豆泥抹在皮塔饼或面包上。有时候甚至会用勺子直接食用。
在居家办公期间,我吃了大量鹰嘴豆泥,以至于我现在都不愿意在冰箱里看到装它的盒子。我厌倦了鹰嘴豆泥,无论从字面意思还是隐含意义来理解都是如此,因为它总是能够让我回想起新冠疫情期间生活的单调无聊。
我或其他人似乎在晚餐方面并不存在鹰嘴豆泥问题。过去两年,空气炸锅在美国畅销。我们做过TikTok上的网红美食羊乳酪意面。我们照着艾莉森·罗曼的做法,把红葱头切成小碎丁。我们甚至天真地购买了大袋豆子,在水里泡上一夜。
但咨询公司艾睿铂(AlixPartners)的总经理大卫·加菲尔德表示,我们在准备晚餐时表现出来的这种对烹饪的热情,并没有出现在午餐当中。咨询公司科尔尼(Kearney)的全球消费者业务负责人格雷格·波特利指出:“午餐让人身心俱疲。对许多人来说,午餐相对乏味。”
新冠疫情初期,消费者确实试图给午餐带来一些改变。波特利称,在经济受到实际影响之前,午餐外卖有所增加。他说:“你不可能每天都在DoorDash上订餐。”
有些人午餐吃了更多冷冻食品,或者尝试“混合餐”,比如购买烤鸡等预先烹饪的食材,与家中自制的食材混和在一起。办公一族首选的沙拉,在居家办公期间失宠。波特利表示,Sweetgreen和Chopt等优秀的连锁餐厅的发展,提高了我们的预期,当我们想用绿叶菜自制沙拉时,如果没有扎塔尔面包碎和烤洋姜等配料,就会感到失望。
食品行业咨询公司哈特曼集团(Hartman Group)的雪莱·巴兰可称,她发现了一种新现象:我们变得更能接受剩菜。接近三分之一的菜肴使用了上一餐的食材。她还发现,越来越多的人会有意额外订餐,以便在下一餐中食用。
与此同时,有越来越多的人选择通过不吃午餐来解决午餐问题。巴兰可表示,2019年春季和2020年春季,美国成年人定期吃午餐的比例为70%左右。但到2021年,这个比例下降到62%。对有些人来说,吃午餐是一件麻烦事,所以我们宁愿不吃。
这并不是说吃午餐在新冠疫情之前多么令人向往。在新冠疫情爆发之前,我们中午最常食用的是不起眼的三明治,这也是我们过去两年最常吃的午餐。事实上,市场研究公司NPD集团(NPD Group)的大卫·波塔拉廷表示,30年来三明治一直都排在美国人午餐的第一位。
发生变化的是我们吃三明治的场所。巴兰可指出,2019年夏季,56%的人在家吃午餐。到新冠疫情初期,该比例提高到81%,即使到2021年的夏天,依旧有65%。
事实上,数据显示,人们认为午餐乏味并不是因为食物本身,而是环境。正餐正在复兴,因为与新冠疫情之前相比,我们更有可能与家人一起用晚餐。之所以午餐被认为可有可无,是因为我们更有可能独自用餐,没有同事陪伴。即便是一份难吃的办公桌沙拉,在与同事一起用餐的时候也不会觉得那么难吃。
有专家认为,即使新冠疫情结束,消费者在某种程度上将继续在家吃午餐;一旦一种全新的行为持续很长时间,就很难改变。然而波特利表示,随着越来越多的员工零星重返办公室,他们可能会稍微放纵一下,不再吃价格低廉的比萨或三明治。
他说:“午餐一直被忽视。但实际上,午餐的体验非常重要。现在我们已经意识到这一点。”(财富中文网)
翻译:刘进龙
审校:汪皓
我超爱鹰嘴豆泥,所以过去两年我几乎每天午餐都少不了它。鹰嘴豆泥必不可少,在Zoom上开视频会议的间隙,每次我去厨房找吃的,都会带一些鹰嘴豆泥。我有时候会搭配嫩胡萝卜,心情好的时候会切一根黄瓜。偶尔会把鹰嘴豆泥抹在皮塔饼或面包上。有时候甚至会用勺子直接食用。
在居家办公期间,我吃了大量鹰嘴豆泥,以至于我现在都不愿意在冰箱里看到装它的盒子。我厌倦了鹰嘴豆泥,无论从字面意思还是隐含意义来理解都是如此,因为它总是能够让我回想起新冠疫情期间生活的单调无聊。
我或其他人似乎在晚餐方面并不存在鹰嘴豆泥问题。过去两年,空气炸锅在美国畅销。我们做过TikTok上的网红美食羊乳酪意面。我们照着艾莉森·罗曼的做法,把红葱头切成小碎丁。我们甚至天真地购买了大袋豆子,在水里泡上一夜。
但咨询公司艾睿铂(AlixPartners)的总经理大卫·加菲尔德表示,我们在准备晚餐时表现出来的这种对烹饪的热情,并没有出现在午餐当中。咨询公司科尔尼(Kearney)的全球消费者业务负责人格雷格·波特利指出:“午餐让人身心俱疲。对许多人来说,午餐相对乏味。”
新冠疫情初期,消费者确实试图给午餐带来一些改变。波特利称,在经济受到实际影响之前,午餐外卖有所增加。他说:“你不可能每天都在DoorDash上订餐。”
有些人午餐吃了更多冷冻食品,或者尝试“混合餐”,比如购买烤鸡等预先烹饪的食材,与家中自制的食材混和在一起。办公一族首选的沙拉,在居家办公期间失宠。波特利表示,Sweetgreen和Chopt等优秀的连锁餐厅的发展,提高了我们的预期,当我们想用绿叶菜自制沙拉时,如果没有扎塔尔面包碎和烤洋姜等配料,就会感到失望。
食品行业咨询公司哈特曼集团(Hartman Group)的雪莱·巴兰可称,她发现了一种新现象:我们变得更能接受剩菜。接近三分之一的菜肴使用了上一餐的食材。她还发现,越来越多的人会有意额外订餐,以便在下一餐中食用。
与此同时,有越来越多的人选择通过不吃午餐来解决午餐问题。巴兰可表示,2019年春季和2020年春季,美国成年人定期吃午餐的比例为70%左右。但到2021年,这个比例下降到62%。对有些人来说,吃午餐是一件麻烦事,所以我们宁愿不吃。
这并不是说吃午餐在新冠疫情之前多么令人向往。在新冠疫情爆发之前,我们中午最常食用的是不起眼的三明治,这也是我们过去两年最常吃的午餐。事实上,市场研究公司NPD集团(NPD Group)的大卫·波塔拉廷表示,30年来三明治一直都排在美国人午餐的第一位。
发生变化的是我们吃三明治的场所。巴兰可指出,2019年夏季,56%的人在家吃午餐。到新冠疫情初期,该比例提高到81%,即使到2021年的夏天,依旧有65%。
事实上,数据显示,人们认为午餐乏味并不是因为食物本身,而是环境。正餐正在复兴,因为与新冠疫情之前相比,我们更有可能与家人一起用晚餐。之所以午餐被认为可有可无,是因为我们更有可能独自用餐,没有同事陪伴。即便是一份难吃的办公桌沙拉,在与同事一起用餐的时候也不会觉得那么难吃。
有专家认为,即使新冠疫情结束,消费者在某种程度上将继续在家吃午餐;一旦一种全新的行为持续很长时间,就很难改变。然而波特利表示,随着越来越多的员工零星重返办公室,他们可能会稍微放纵一下,不再吃价格低廉的比萨或三明治。
他说:“午餐一直被忽视。但实际上,午餐的体验非常重要。现在我们已经意识到这一点。”(财富中文网)
翻译:刘进龙
审校:汪皓
I loved hummus so much that I ate it nearly every day for lunch for the past two years. It was my default, the thing I always returned to when I was scrounging around in my kitchen between Zooms. Sometimes I ate it with baby carrots, or, if I was really feeling ambitious, I’d cut up a cucumber. Occasionally I’d spread it on pita or bread. I’ll even admit to eating it straight off the spoon from time to time.
I have eaten so much hummus while working from home that, now, I can barely stand to look at the tub of it sitting in my fridge. I am tired of hummus in the literal sense, but also in the metaphorical: It’s a constant reminder of the monotony of my pandemic life.
The Hummus Problem is not one I—or others—seem to have had at dinner. During the past two years, Americans bought air fryers with abandon. We made TikTok feta pasta. We chopped shallots into a million little pieces at Alison Roman’s behest. We were even naive enough to order giant bags of beans and soak them overnight.
And yet this newfound passion for cooking that we harnessed to whip up dinner has been nowhere to be seen at lunch, says David Garfield, a managing director at consultancy AlixPartners. “Lunch is a burnout,” says Greg Portell, who leads the global consumer practice at advisory firm Kearney. “It’s become a relatively boring meal for people.”
In the early days of the pandemic, consumers did try to shake things up with their noon meal. Portell says there was a rise in lunchtime takeout before the economic reality set in. “You can’t live on DoorDash every day,” he notes.
Some of us ate more frozen food at lunch or dabbled in “blended meals”—purchasing a premade element like a rotisserie chicken and adding our own homemade sides. Salad, an office worker go-to, was largely a nonstarter once those same employees were working from home. Portell points to the growth of fancy chains like Sweetgreen and Chopt, which raised expectations to the point where we just feel disappointment if we attempt to make our own leafy greens without the benefit of fun add-ins like za’atar breadcrumbs and roasted sunchokes.
Shelley Balanko of food industry tracker Hartman Group says she’s noticed a new phenomenon around leftovers: We’ve embraced them like never before. Nearly a third of all meals now involve a component from a previous one. She’s even seeing a rise in diners intentionally ordering extra food from restaurants to eat later.
Meanwhile, there’s a growing contingent that’s solving the lunch problem by simply skipping it altogether. Balanko says the proportion of U.S. adults who reported eating regular lunches in the spring of 2019 and the spring of 2020 was around 70%. But by 2021, that percentage had fallen to 62%. Lunch is such a struggle for some of us that we’d rather not deal with it at all.
It’s not as though lunch was super thrilling before the pandemic either. The humble sandwich was the No. 1 thing we ate at midday pre-COVID, and it’s the No. 1 thing we’ve been eating for the past two years. In fact, says David Portalatin of market research firm NPD Group, the sandwich tops the list of things we’ve eaten for lunch for 30 years.
The big thing that’s changed is where we’re eating said sandwich. In the summer of 2019, 56% of lunches were consumed at home, says Balanko. In the early days of the pandemic, that number jumped to 81%. Even last summer, 65% of lunches were still being eaten at home.
In reality, the data shows that lunch boredom comes not from the food but the setting. Dinner is having a renaissance because we’re now more likely to eat it with our families than we were pre-pandemic. Lunch is a dud because we’re more likely to eat it alone, without our colleagues. Even a sad desk salad is a little bit less sad when you’re surrounded by your work friends.
Some experts think that even once the pandemic subsides, consumers will continue to source their lunches from home to some degree; once we adopt a new behavior over a long period of time, it’s hard for us to let it go. But Portell says that as more workers return to the office sporadically, they’re likely to indulge a bit and perhaps splurge beyond that cheap slice of pizza or sandwich.
“Lunch has always been an overlooked meal,” he says. “But the experience of lunch is actually important. We’ve realized that now.”