感觉几乎每隔一天,一个关于植物蛋白的新故事就会出现在商业版面上,很引人注目。无论是大型快餐连锁店或超市连锁店与素食肉类品牌合作,还是名人或商业领袖向植物基食品初创公司投入巨资,或者是老牌肉类或乳制品公司推出新的植物基产品,这一行业的热潮似乎一直很稳定。
然而,在一些市场观察人士中,有传言称植物基肉可能已经达到顶峰。2021年的市场数据显示,植物基肉收入出现了相当惊人的下降——比上一年下降了15%。
快餐菜单上出现无肉汉堡、鸡块和三明治后,它们很快就开始消失。批评者指出,令人失望的销售数字导致一些连锁餐厅减少植物基肉菜肴的广告或将其完全从菜单中删除。现在最初的炒作正在消退,看起来消费者可能根本就对植物基肉不感兴趣。
超越肉类(Beyond Meat)等行业领导者提出了大量可能出现的解释,包括新冠肺炎疫情减轻和对健康饮食的兴趣下降。但这些假设可能与现实不符。英国《金融时报》(Financial Times)援引最近对美国成年人的一项调查发现,39%的受访者希望减少肉类消费——但同一群体中有40%的人表示目前或将来对食用植物基肉不感兴趣。
对于这个行业来说,事实可能有点难以接受:并不是人们对更健康、更环保的食品不感兴趣。只是目前,他们对植物基肉不感兴趣。
在解释这些下降的销售数字时,研究人员和其他专家提出了各种各样的消费者投诉。是的,植物基汉堡肉饼的胆固醇可能为零,饱和脂肪也比牛肉饼低,但配料表中充满了油和实验室开发的蛋白质提取物,这让注重养生和“清洁饮食”人群感到害怕。
对于其他人来说,主要问题是口味:他们尝试过的产品还不够好。一般来说,植物基食品价格仍高于类似的肉类产品,这对植物基食品没有任何好处。
无论他们的志向多么伟大,人们都不会花更多的钱去购买他们认为低劣的产品。如果植物基肉类行业真的想满足消费者对更健康、更环保的饮食的兴趣,那就没有其他办法了:他们必须找到一种方法来改进产品并降低价格。
“改进”的产品可能是什么样子将取决于你问谁。对于一些人来说,他们希望配料表更精简、不熟悉的配料成分更少。对于其他人来说,可以说是大多数人,他们希望产品更多汁、更肥美、更咸,总体上与传统肉类更相似。
无论消费者优先考虑什么,高昂的价格都会劝退他们,让他们难以将植物基肉纳入日常饮食。随着公司不断调整他们的产品,他们还必须找到降低成本的方法,也许是通过扩大生产规模。
另一种解释令人担忧的销售数字的方式是,它们与产品本身无关:人们只是对植物基肉不感兴趣。
既然最初的炒作已经过去,无论纯素汉堡和鸡块多么美味或价格实惠,消费者对它们的需求并不大。虽然这可能看起来是一个不可逾越的障碍,但现在我们生活中处处可见的许多产品都不是消费者真正需要的。人造需求是一种工具,企业使用这种工具激起消费者对曾经几乎没有任何大众吸引力的东西的购买欲。
其中一个例子就是瓶装水。环保主义者安妮·伦纳德(Annie Leonard)等消费主义批评者认为,饮料公司通过说服力营销说服消费者购买瓶装水,这些水通常不会比他们厨房水槽里的水更好或更清洁。
我们有机会使用相同的策略,但是是为了更美好的明天。瓶装水的爆炸式增长极大地加剧了塑料垃圾问题,同时它只是提供了大多数消费者家中本来就有的东西。另一方面,植物基肉实际上可以改变世界——无论购物者目前是否想要它。
成功的公司会走在人们的需求前面,用消费者自己都不会想到的创新产品来满足他们的价值取向。
当今市场上的很多植物基肉制品在消费者眼中存在着明显的缺陷,但其背后的核心理念仍然是有现实意义的。
今天,有些人希望少吃肉,减少碳足迹,并改善胆固醇和血压等健康指标。尽管我们所知道的植物基肉在某些领域仍有待改进,但它们仍然可以解决工业化畜牧业的主要环境和道德问题。即使我们目前拥有的特定产品不能完全满足消费者的需求,它们的核心价值仍然是有现实意义的,在地球的未来悬而未定的情况下,口味和价格只需简单研发就能解决。(财富中文网)
布莱恩·卡特曼(Brian Kateman)是忌肉主义者基金会(Reducetarian Foundation)的联合创始人兼总裁。该基金会是一个非营利组织,致力于减少肉、蛋和奶制品的消费,以创造一个健康、可持续和富有同情心的世界。布莱恩·卡特曼是《忌肉主义者如何做出妥协》(Meat Me Halfway)的作者——受到同名纪录片的启发,并且是《忌肉主义者食谱》(The Reducetarian Cookbook)和《忌肉主义者解决方案》(The Reducetarian Solution)的编辑。
感觉几乎每隔一天,一个关于植物蛋白的新故事就会出现在商业版面上,很引人注目。无论是大型快餐连锁店或超市连锁店与素食肉类品牌合作,还是名人或商业领袖向植物基食品初创公司投入巨资,或者是老牌肉类或乳制品公司推出新的植物基产品,这一行业的热潮似乎一直很稳定。
然而,在一些市场观察人士中,有传言称植物基肉可能已经达到顶峰。2021年的市场数据显示,植物基肉收入出现了相当惊人的下降——比上一年下降了15%。
快餐菜单上出现无肉汉堡、鸡块和三明治后,它们很快就开始消失。批评者指出,令人失望的销售数字导致一些连锁餐厅减少植物基肉菜肴的广告或将其完全从菜单中删除。现在最初的炒作正在消退,看起来消费者可能根本就对植物基肉不感兴趣。
超越肉类(Beyond Meat)等行业领导者提出了大量可能出现的解释,包括新冠肺炎疫情减轻和对健康饮食的兴趣下降。但这些假设可能与现实不符。英国《金融时报》(Financial Times)援引最近对美国成年人的一项调查发现,39%的受访者希望减少肉类消费——但同一群体中有40%的人表示目前或将来对食用植物基肉不感兴趣。
对于这个行业来说,事实可能有点难以接受:并不是人们对更健康、更环保的食品不感兴趣。只是目前,他们对植物基肉不感兴趣。
在解释这些下降的销售数字时,研究人员和其他专家提出了各种各样的消费者投诉。是的,植物基汉堡肉饼的胆固醇可能为零,饱和脂肪也比牛肉饼低,但配料表中充满了油和实验室开发的蛋白质提取物,这让注重养生和“清洁饮食”人群感到害怕。
对于其他人来说,主要问题是口味:他们尝试过的产品还不够好。一般来说,植物基食品价格仍高于类似的肉类产品,这对植物基食品没有任何好处。
无论他们的志向多么伟大,人们都不会花更多的钱去购买他们认为低劣的产品。如果植物基肉类行业真的想满足消费者对更健康、更环保的饮食的兴趣,那就没有其他办法了:他们必须找到一种方法来改进产品并降低价格。
“改进”的产品可能是什么样子将取决于你问谁。对于一些人来说,他们希望配料表更精简、不熟悉的配料成分更少。对于其他人来说,可以说是大多数人,他们希望产品更多汁、更肥美、更咸,总体上与传统肉类更相似。
无论消费者优先考虑什么,高昂的价格都会劝退他们,让他们难以将植物基肉纳入日常饮食。随着公司不断调整他们的产品,他们还必须找到降低成本的方法,也许是通过扩大生产规模。
另一种解释令人担忧的销售数字的方式是,它们与产品本身无关:人们只是对植物基肉不感兴趣。
既然最初的炒作已经过去,无论纯素汉堡和鸡块多么美味或价格实惠,消费者对它们的需求并不大。虽然这可能看起来是一个不可逾越的障碍,但现在我们生活中处处可见的许多产品都不是消费者真正需要的。人造需求是一种工具,企业使用这种工具激起消费者对曾经几乎没有任何大众吸引力的东西的购买欲。
其中一个例子就是瓶装水。环保主义者安妮·伦纳德(Annie Leonard)等消费主义批评者认为,饮料公司通过说服力营销说服消费者购买瓶装水,这些水通常不会比他们厨房水槽里的水更好或更清洁。
我们有机会使用相同的策略,但是是为了更美好的明天。瓶装水的爆炸式增长极大地加剧了塑料垃圾问题,同时它只是提供了大多数消费者家中本来就有的东西。另一方面,植物基肉实际上可以改变世界——无论购物者目前是否想要它。
成功的公司会走在人们的需求前面,用消费者自己都不会想到的创新产品来满足他们的价值取向。
当今市场上的很多植物基肉制品在消费者眼中存在着明显的缺陷,但其背后的核心理念仍然是有现实意义的。
今天,有些人希望少吃肉,减少碳足迹,并改善胆固醇和血压等健康指标。尽管我们所知道的植物基肉在某些领域仍有待改进,但它们仍然可以解决工业化畜牧业的主要环境和道德问题。即使我们目前拥有的特定产品不能完全满足消费者的需求,它们的核心价值仍然是有现实意义的,在地球的未来悬而未定的情况下,口味和价格只需简单研发就能解决。(财富中文网)
布莱恩·卡特曼(Brian Kateman)是忌肉主义者基金会(Reducetarian Foundation)的联合创始人兼总裁。该基金会是一个非营利组织,致力于减少肉、蛋和奶制品的消费,以创造一个健康、可持续和富有同情心的世界。布莱恩·卡特曼是《忌肉主义者如何做出妥协》(Meat Me Halfway)的作者——受到同名纪录片的启发,并且是《忌肉主义者食谱》(The Reducetarian Cookbook)和《忌肉主义者解决方案》(The Reducetarian Solution)的编辑。
It feels like practically every other day, a splashy new story about plant-based protein is hitting the business pages. Whether it’s a major fast-food or supermarket chain partnering with a vegan meat brand, a celebrity or business leader investing big money into a plant-based food startup, or an established meat or dairy company launching a new plant-based product, the excitement around the sector seems to be holding steady.
However, among some market watchers, there are whispers that plant-based meat may have already reached its peak. Market data from 2021 shows some pretty alarming dips in revenue—as much as 15% from the previous year.
As quickly as meatless burgers, nuggets, and sandwiches appeared on fast-food menus, they’re beginning to disappear. Critics point to disappointing sales figures, which have led some restaurant chains to ratchet down their advertising for plant-based meat dishes or remove them from their menus entirely. Now that the initial hype is waning, it looks as though consumers might not be interested in plant-based meat after all.
Industry leaders like Beyond Meat point to a plethora of possible explanations, including the general pandemic slowdown and a fallen interest in healthy eating. But those suppositions might not match up with reality. The Financial Times cites a recent survey of American adults which found that 39% of respondents wanted to reduce their meat consumption—but 40% of that same group expressed no interest in eating plant-based meat currently or in the future.
The truth might be a little harder for the industry to swallow: It’s not that people are uninterested in healthier and more planet-friendly foods. It’s just that plant-based meat, as it exists currently, isn’t doing it for them.
In interpreting those falling sales figures, researchers and other experts have put forth a wide range of consumer complaints. Yes, a plant-based burger patty might have zero cholesterol and lower saturated fat than its beefy counterpart, but the ingredient list—full of oils and lab-developed protein isolates—scares off the health nuts and “clean eating” population.
For others, the main problem is taste: The products they’ve tried just aren’t good enough. The price point, which is generally still higher than comparable meat products, isn’t doing plant-based food any favors.
No matter how lofty their aspirations are, people just aren’t going to spend more money on a product they find inferior. If the plant-based meat sector really wants to be the answer to consumer interest in healthier, climate-friendlier eating, there’s no way around it: They’re going to have to find a way to improve products and lower prices.
What an “improved” product might look like will depend on who you ask. For some, it’ll be a shorter ingredient list and fewer unfamiliar components. For others, arguably most, it’ll just be something juicier, fattier, saltier, and overall more similar to traditional meat.
No matter what consumers prioritize, high prices are going to make it difficult for them to justify integrating plant-based meat into their regular diet. As companies continue to tweak their products, they must also find a way to reduce costs, perhaps by scaling up production.
Another way to interpret the worrying sales figures is that they have little to do with the products themselves: People simply aren’t interested in plant-based meat.
Now that the initial hype has passed, there just isn’t much consumer demand for vegan burgers and nuggets, no matter how tasty or affordable they are. While this might seem like an insurmountable obstacle, plenty of products that are now ubiquitous in our world are things that consumers never really asked for. Manufactured demand is a tool that corporations have used to make people want things that once had little to no mass appeal.
One such example is bottled water. Critics of consumerism, such as environmentalist Annie Leonard, have argued that persuasive marketing is the real reason beverage companies have convinced consumers to buy water that’s generally no better or cleaner than the stuff that already comes from their kitchen sink.
We have the chance to use the same tactic, but for good. The explosion of bottled water has contributed significantly to the problem of plastic waste while offering nothing that most consumers didn’t already have at home. Plant-based meat, on the other hand, could actually improve the world—whether shoppers currently want it or not.
Successful companies will get ahead of what people want, addressing the customers’ values with a product so innovative that they wouldn’t have thought of it themselves.
Many of the plant-based meat products on the market today have obvious flaws in the eyes of consumers, but the core idea behind them is still relevant.
Today, some people want to eat less meat, reduce their carbon footprint, and improve health markers like cholesterol and blood pressure. Despite the areas where plant-based meat as we know it leaves something to be desired, the category could still be the solution to the major environmental and ethical drawbacks of industrial animal agriculture. Even if the specific products we have currently aren’t totally satisfying the consumer, their core values are still relevant, and with Earth’s future hanging in the balance, taste and price are nothing a little R&D can’t fix.
Brian Kateman is cofounder and president of the Reducetarian Foundation, a nonprofit organization dedicated to reducing consumption of meat, eggs, and dairy to create a healthy, sustainable, and compassionate world. Kateman is author of Meat Me Halfway—inspired by a documentary of the same name—and editor of The Reducetarian Cookbook and The Reducetarian Solution.