作为一家美容业巨头,Coty公司旗下虽然拥有Kylie Cosmetics 和CoverGirl等知名品牌,但近五年来仍未摆脱挣扎求生的状态,公司也走马灯似的换了五任CEO,现任CEO苏伊·纳比也是该公司第一次从美容行业内部选拔的CEO。她认为,自己的从业背景有助于帮助Coty公司扭转不利的财务状况,进而恢复盈利能力。
纳比是一名法国人,而且是一个变性人,这在大企业的CEO中是十分罕见的。在纳比接手时,Coty已经是一家债台高筑、问题百出的公司了。它于2016年收购了宝洁公司的大部分美容业务,导致它出现了“消化不良”的症状。另外它旗下的高端产品过少,使得盈利能力不足。而且它在中国市场也只是一个小角色,远远不如欧莱雅和雅诗兰黛等竞争对手。
Coty公司的前几任CEO都来自食品和家用产品等消费品行业,因为消费品的高管是出了名的善于打造品牌。不过纳比认为,洗衣粉或杀虫剂这种快消品相比,美容行业更关注的是消费者的可支配收入,更关注的是外表的呈现,而前几任CEO并未意识到这些微妙的区别。 “直觉在我们这个行业是很重要的。我经常说,直觉就是直观的智慧。” 纳比在阿姆斯特丹接受《财富》的远程采访时表示:“我很注重细节,比如我会要求看看包装,它闻起来是什么味道的?你确定这个名字符合产品的定位吗?而且我也喜欢观察别人。”
作为Coty的CEO,她上台伊始就采取了加快推出新品的战略,同时积极为CoverGirl等老品牌寻找新市场,并且还授权巴宝莉(Burberry)等大型设计品牌面向中国市场推出更多产品。这些做法已经初步取得了成效。2021年,Coty收购了金·卡戴珊旗下KKW Beauty(现更名为SKKN)公司20%的股份。而在此两年之前,Coty还收购了其姐妹品牌Kylie Cosmetics的51%的股份。据称卡戴珊姐妹现在都想从Coty公司回购各自的股份。纳比拒绝直接就相关报道发表评论,不过她通过电子邮件向《财富》表示:“我们与这两个团队都保持着很好而且很成功的关系。”
Coty公司最早是120年前成立于法国巴黎的一家香水制造商。在纳比的带领下,它的业务逐渐有了起色。上一财年该公司的收入增长了5%,达到55亿美元。Coty在经历了长期亏损后,终于连续两年实现盈利。它的债务负担也有所下降,自从纳比接手以来,公司股价已上涨近3倍。这些成绩也使得纳比荣登《财富》“2023年最具影响力商界女性排行榜”第87位。
为简洁起见,以下采访稿有删节。
《财富》:在动荡的经济形势下,美容行业的表现似乎总是好于其他消费支出领域,为什么这个行业如此具有韧性?
首先是因为美容会让你看起来更好,让你的感觉更好,美容事关你展现给全世界的这张脸。另外美容业之所以有较强的韧性,是因为它同时关乎健康与美这两件大事。美容的愉悦性和体验性是医疗保健行业所不具备的,所以可以说它处于两个领域的最佳位置。
《财富》:在经济下行时期,美容产品往往卖得更好,因为这时美容产品成了老百姓相对负担得起的一种奢侈品。目前消费者的手头都很拮据,在当前的环境下,他们在美容产品上的消费是升级了还是降级了?
人们只会花钱买他们认为有效的产品,不管价格高低。不过现在的市场竞争空前激烈,你必须通过科学、通过讲故事、通过卓越的效果,告诉人们为什么产品值这个价格水平。同时消费者也做好了花这笔钱的准备,因为这确实是一种日常化的奢侈品。
《财富》:多年以来,美容公司都喜欢用名人效应来推销香水——比如布兰妮·斯皮尔斯联名款等等。不过这只是将明星的名字印在香水瓶上,产品与这些名人实际上并没有什么关系。现在还是这种情况吗?
我经常说,人们可能会因为你的名字而买你的产品一次,但只有认可了你的品质,才会买你两次以上。所以这两者都是重要的。你需要消费者的认知,需要产品与流行的关联性,需要消费者的兴奋度,但这只是其中的一部分,最终你的业务必须要能经得起时间的检验。
《财富》:很多人说Z世代的消费者跟以前的消费者不一样,在美容领域也是如此吗?
他们的核心需求与任何一代人都是相同的,他们想要高质量的并且符合他们的个性表达的产品,如果说有不同之处的话,那就是他们与品牌的互动方式。他们只想要进行一次对话,而不是大规模的对话。他们希望品牌在使用的成份和材料上体现出包容性和可持续性。
《财富》:随着众多美容品牌的涌现,Coty是否面临着加快创新速度的压力?
我们的新陈代谢速度确实比过去快了。同时我们也有很强的盈利能力,因为我们的经典产品经受住了时间的考验。我们的一些香水已经在美容行业拥有70年的历史,这些产品也将为我们的创新提供资本。而且我们在化妆品领域也有创新,化妆被人们当成一种娱乐,这六个月大家可能都会去买亮色的口红,过了六个月大家又都去买暗色的口红。所以你必须跟上流行的脚步,同时也要打造自己的“摇钱树”产品。
《财富》:你是2020年9月当上CEO的,也是Coty公司五年里的第5个CEO,而且你当时还面临疫情的威胁。你是如何稳定军心,帮助他们摆脱危机感的?
我做的第一件事就是召集全体员工开会。我没有向他们许诺任何事,只是跟他们探讨了美容。我想向他们展示的是,我了解这个行业,了解成功的法则,同时我也要向他们解释,品牌和产品是需要有相当大的独特性的。因为在这个到处千篇一律的时代里,特异性才是美的。我解释了我对美容的热情。大家的反馈非常好,因为这是CEO第一次没有跟他们谈财务损益问题,谈我们下周或者下个季度该做什么,而是谈愿景、谈激情,谈直觉对业务的重要性。
《财富》:你也是长期以来,Coty公司第一位来自美容行业而非快消行业的CEO。这个背景对你有何帮助?
当你对美容充满激情,并且理解了美容时,你会发现,成败的差距就在一线间,而很多行业以外的人是不理解这种微妙的差距的。还有一件事从二三十年前起就对我影响很大,那就是我关注那些最微小的细节,而我们的业务最注重细节。我就像一台摄像机一样观察着周围的人。
《财富》:你的一大目标是让Coty扩大在中国市场的份额,就像雅诗兰黛和欧莱雅一样。你是否担心当前中美关系会影响到这一目标的实现?
业内的任何一个人都知道,中国显然将成为全球最大的美容产品市场。而且这是一个充斥着美容专家的国家,你面前不光有消费者,还有大量美容专家。这些要求你必须加大在质量、透明度和科研效率方面的投入。目前我们在中国市场上的规模仍然很小,中国市场只占了我们净收入的4%。但我们也有一个优势,那就是我们的香水业务正在中国市场蓬勃发展。即便中美关系有一定的影响,这种影响也是相当有限的。
《财富》:你在大学里学的是环境工程,重点方向是水资源。这段教育经历对你的工作有何影响?
不管是在欧莱雅的时候,还是现在,这段教育经历对我都很有用。我与研发人员合作得很好,因为他们知道我也是一个研发型人才。我们公司在皮肤健康防护领域拥有一些很有意思的知识产权,这在紫外线越来越严重而且日益变暖的世界里是十分重要的。
《财富》:你是为数不多的变性人CEO之一。我们如何才能让更多的变性人进入高管层?
我经常对人说:“评价一个人要看他做了什么,而不是看他是谁。”所以,希望大家给任何有想法、有激情、有创新意愿的人一个机会。这才是人们应该关注的,其他都是私生活的范畴。另外身为变性人,我了解左右脑的区别,以及男女的思维方式差异,这也有助我创造一些世界上最成功的美容产品。
但如果有些人不能接受你的身份,他们可能不会花时间看你做了什么。不过我想,成功就是最好的打脸方式。
人人都喜欢成功。
关于纳比:
纳比生于阿尔及利亚,在法国长大并接受教育。
纳比于2018年创办了护肤品牌Orveda,在她担任Coty公司首席执行官,Coty于2021年收购了该品牌。
1993年至2013年,纳比从欧莱雅公司的一个销售代表一路升至总裁一职。在她领导兰蔻品牌的5年间,人们认为她对重振兰蔻品牌发挥了至关重要的作用。(财富中文网)
译者:朴成奎
Coty公司CEO苏伊·纳比
作为一家美容业巨头,Coty公司旗下虽然拥有Kylie Cosmetics 和CoverGirl等知名品牌,但近五年来仍未摆脱挣扎求生的状态,公司也走马灯似的换了五任CEO,现任CEO苏伊·纳比也是该公司第一次从美容行业内部选拔的CEO。她认为,自己的从业背景有助于帮助Coty公司扭转不利的财务状况,进而恢复盈利能力。
纳比是一名法国人,而且是一个变性人,这在大企业的CEO中是十分罕见的。在纳比接手时,Coty已经是一家债台高筑、问题百出的公司了。它于2016年收购了宝洁公司的大部分美容业务,导致它出现了“消化不良”的症状。另外它旗下的高端产品过少,使得盈利能力不足。而且它在中国市场也只是一个小角色,远远不如欧莱雅和雅诗兰黛等竞争对手。
Coty公司的前几任CEO都来自食品和家用产品等消费品行业,因为消费品的高管是出了名的善于打造品牌。不过纳比认为,洗衣粉或杀虫剂这种快消品相比,美容行业更关注的是消费者的可支配收入,更关注的是外表的呈现,而前几任CEO并未意识到这些微妙的区别。 “直觉在我们这个行业是很重要的。我经常说,直觉就是直观的智慧。” 纳比在阿姆斯特丹接受《财富》的远程采访时表示:“我很注重细节,比如我会要求看看包装,它闻起来是什么味道的?你确定这个名字符合产品的定位吗?而且我也喜欢观察别人。”
作为Coty的CEO,她上台伊始就采取了加快推出新品的战略,同时积极为CoverGirl等老品牌寻找新市场,并且还授权巴宝莉(Burberry)等大型设计品牌面向中国市场推出更多产品。这些做法已经初步取得了成效。2021年,Coty收购了金·卡戴珊旗下KKW Beauty(现更名为SKKN)公司20%的股份。而在此两年之前,Coty还收购了其姐妹品牌Kylie Cosmetics的51%的股份。据称卡戴珊姐妹现在都想从Coty公司回购各自的股份。纳比拒绝直接就相关报道发表评论,不过她通过电子邮件向《财富》表示:“我们与这两个团队都保持着很好而且很成功的关系。”
Coty公司最早是120年前成立于法国巴黎的一家香水制造商。在纳比的带领下,它的业务逐渐有了起色。上一财年该公司的收入增长了5%,达到55亿美元。Coty在经历了长期亏损后,终于连续两年实现盈利。它的债务负担也有所下降,自从纳比接手以来,公司股价已上涨近3倍。这些成绩也使得纳比荣登《财富》“2023年最具影响力商界女性排行榜”第87位。
为简洁起见,以下采访稿有删节。
《财富》:在动荡的经济形势下,美容行业的表现似乎总是好于其他消费支出领域,为什么这个行业如此具有韧性?
首先是因为美容会让你看起来更好,让你的感觉更好,美容事关你展现给全世界的这张脸。另外美容业之所以有较强的韧性,是因为它同时关乎健康与美这两件大事。美容的愉悦性和体验性是医疗保健行业所不具备的,所以可以说它处于两个领域的最佳位置。
《财富》:在经济下行时期,美容产品往往卖得更好,因为这时美容产品成了老百姓相对负担得起的一种奢侈品。目前消费者的手头都很拮据,在当前的环境下,他们在美容产品上的消费是升级了还是降级了?
人们只会花钱买他们认为有效的产品,不管价格高低。不过现在的市场竞争空前激烈,你必须通过科学、通过讲故事、通过卓越的效果,告诉人们为什么产品值这个价格水平。同时消费者也做好了花这笔钱的准备,因为这确实是一种日常化的奢侈品。
《财富》:多年以来,美容公司都喜欢用名人效应来推销香水——比如布兰妮·斯皮尔斯联名款等等。不过这只是将明星的名字印在香水瓶上,产品与这些名人实际上并没有什么关系。现在还是这种情况吗?
我经常说,人们可能会因为你的名字而买你的产品一次,但只有认可了你的品质,才会买你两次以上。所以这两者都是重要的。你需要消费者的认知,需要产品与流行的关联性,需要消费者的兴奋度,但这只是其中的一部分,最终你的业务必须要能经得起时间的检验。
《财富》:很多人说Z世代的消费者跟以前的消费者不一样,在美容领域也是如此吗?
他们的核心需求与任何一代人都是相同的,他们想要高质量的并且符合他们的个性表达的产品,如果说有不同之处的话,那就是他们与品牌的互动方式。他们只想要进行一次对话,而不是大规模的对话。他们希望品牌在使用的成份和材料上体现出包容性和可持续性。
《财富》:随着众多美容品牌的涌现,Coty是否面临着加快创新速度的压力?
我们的新陈代谢速度确实比过去快了。同时我们也有很强的盈利能力,因为我们的经典产品经受住了时间的考验。我们的一些香水已经在美容行业拥有70年的历史,这些产品也将为我们的创新提供资本。而且我们在化妆品领域也有创新,化妆被人们当成一种娱乐,这六个月大家可能都会去买亮色的口红,过了六个月大家又都去买暗色的口红。所以你必须跟上流行的脚步,同时也要打造自己的“摇钱树”产品。
《财富》:你是2020年9月当上CEO的,也是Coty公司五年里的第5个CEO,而且你当时还面临疫情的威胁。你是如何稳定军心,帮助他们摆脱危机感的?
我做的第一件事就是召集全体员工开会。我没有向他们许诺任何事,只是跟他们探讨了美容。我想向他们展示的是,我了解这个行业,了解成功的法则,同时我也要向他们解释,品牌和产品是需要有相当大的独特性的。因为在这个到处千篇一律的时代里,特异性才是美的。我解释了我对美容的热情。大家的反馈非常好,因为这是CEO第一次没有跟他们谈财务损益问题,谈我们下周或者下个季度该做什么,而是谈愿景、谈激情,谈直觉对业务的重要性。
《财富》:你也是长期以来,Coty公司第一位来自美容行业而非快消行业的CEO。这个背景对你有何帮助?
当你对美容充满激情,并且理解了美容时,你会发现,成败的差距就在一线间,而很多行业以外的人是不理解这种微妙的差距的。还有一件事从二三十年前起就对我影响很大,那就是我关注那些最微小的细节,而我们的业务最注重细节。我就像一台摄像机一样观察着周围的人。
《财富》:你的一大目标是让Coty扩大在中国市场的份额,就像雅诗兰黛和欧莱雅一样。你是否担心当前中美关系会影响到这一目标的实现?
业内的任何一个人都知道,中国显然将成为全球最大的美容产品市场。而且这是一个充斥着美容专家的国家,你面前不光有消费者,还有大量美容专家。这些要求你必须加大在质量、透明度和科研效率方面的投入。目前我们在中国市场上的规模仍然很小,中国市场只占了我们净收入的4%。但我们也有一个优势,那就是我们的香水业务正在中国市场蓬勃发展。即便中美关系有一定的影响,这种影响也是相当有限的。
《财富》:你在大学里学的是环境工程,重点方向是水资源。这段教育经历对你的工作有何影响?
不管是在欧莱雅的时候,还是现在,这段教育经历对我都很有用。我与研发人员合作得很好,因为他们知道我也是一个研发型人才。我们公司在皮肤健康防护领域拥有一些很有意思的知识产权,这在紫外线越来越严重而且日益变暖的世界里是十分重要的。
《财富》:你是为数不多的变性人CEO之一。我们如何才能让更多的变性人进入高管层?
我经常对人说:“评价一个人要看他做了什么,而不是看他是谁。”所以,希望大家给任何有想法、有激情、有创新意愿的人一个机会。这才是人们应该关注的,其他都是私生活的范畴。另外身为变性人,我了解左右脑的区别,以及男女的思维方式差异,这也有助我创造一些世界上最成功的美容产品。
但如果有些人不能接受你的身份,他们可能不会花时间看你做了什么。不过我想,成功就是最好的打脸方式。
人人都喜欢成功。
关于纳比:
纳比生于阿尔及利亚,在法国长大并接受教育。
纳比于2018年创办了护肤品牌Orveda,在她担任Coty公司首席执行官,Coty于2021年收购了该品牌。
1993年至2013年,纳比从欧莱雅公司的一个销售代表一路升至总裁一职。在她领导兰蔻品牌的5年间,人们认为她对重振兰蔻品牌发挥了至关重要的作用。(财富中文网)
译者:朴成奎
When Coty CEO Sue Nabi took the reins of the company behind Kylie Cosmetics and CoverGirl, she became the fifth CEO in five years at the struggling beauty giant. She was also the first in years to come from inside the beauty products industry, a background she credits with helping her halt Coty’s poor financial performance and return it to profitability.
Nabi is a French native and a rare transgender CEO at a large U.S. corporation. (There are no others on the Fortune 1000, but she has a peer in Martine Rothblatt, the founder and CEO of biotech company United Therapeutics.) When she became CEO, she inherited a debt-laden company riddled with problems: Coty was stretched too thin following its ill-advised acquisition in 2016 of most of Procter & Gamble’s beauty business. Moreover, the company had too small a roster of higher-end products, which typically boast better profit margins, and was a minor player in China, far behind competitors like L’Oréal and Estée Lauder.
The CEO’s predecessors had hailed from the world of consumer packaged goods like food and household products, an industry where executives are famed for brand-building. The beauty sector, however, is more about discretionary spending and physical appearance, versus the business behind, say, laundry detergent or bug spray, and previous chief executives missed out on the subtleties that define success and failure in the industry, Nabi says. “Intuition is important in our industry. I love to say that intuition is intelligence that takes a shortcut,” Nabi told Fortune from Amsterdam in a virtual interview. “I really get into the details. Show me the packaging. What does it smell like? Are you sure this is the right name for this kind of positioning? And I love to observe people.”
As Coty’s CEO, her early strategies to introduce new products faster, find new markets for old brands like CoverGirl, and license more products in China from big designers like Burberry seem to be working. She’s also turned to celebrity-owned brands. In 2021, Coty acquired a 20% stake in Kim Kardashian’s KKW Beauty (now called SKKN), two years after it took a 51% stake in sister Kylie Jenner’s brand. Both women are now reportedly seeking to buy back their respective stakes from Coty. Nabi declined to comment directly on the reports but told Fortune in an e-mail: “We have very well-established and highly successful relationships with both teams.”
Nabi’s turnaround of the nearly 120-year-old company founded in Paris as a fragrance maker is taking hold: Revenue rose 5% last fiscal year to $5.5 billion, and Coty has been profitable for two straight years after an extended period of losses. Its debt load has also fallen, and shares have nearly tripled since she took over. Those green shoots landed Nabi at No. 87 on Fortune’s 2023 Most Powerful Women in Business list.
This interview was edited and condensed for clarity.
Fortune: In a bumpy economy, beauty always seems to fare better than other consumer spending sectors. Why is the category so resilient?
It is resilient primarily because beauty makes you feel better in general and, therefore, look better, and beauty is the face you show to the world. It’s resilient because it’s in the sweet spot between health and looking better. Beauty has a playfulness and an experiential path that the health industry doesn’t, so it’s really the best of both worlds.
Beauty often thrives in down times because it becomes a comparatively affordable luxury, but consumers are pinched. Are they trading down or up in this environment?
People spend on products they believe will give them the results they’re looking for at whatever price levels. But the market is more competitive than ever, and you need to explain to people why they need to pay this pricing level through science, storytelling, superior performance, and so on. At the same time, they’re ready to do it because it is a daily luxury.
For years, beauty companies tapped celebrities like Britney Spears to launch fragrances. But that stalled as stars simply slapped their name on a perfume bottle without having anything to do with the product. Is that still the case?
I love to say that people might buy your product once because of your name, but they’ll only buy it two or more times because of the quality behind it. So it’s both. You need the consumer awareness, you need the relevancy, you need the excitement, but that’s just part of the story. The full story is about building a business that will stand the test of time.
We hear so much about how Gen Z shoppers are different. Does that hold in the beauty category?
The core things they look for are more or less the same as any older generation. They want high-quality products that deliver on their promises and speak to who they are in terms of individuality. Where there may be a difference is in how they interact with brands. They want to have one conversation versus mass conversations. They want to believe that a brand stands for inclusivity and sustainability regarding the ingredients and materials used.
With the proliferation of so many beauty brands, is there pressure on Coty to increase its pace of innovation?
Our metabolism is faster than in the past. But at the same time, our business is very profitable because we build iconic products that stand the test of time. Some of our fragrances have been in the beauty industry for up to seven decades, and such products will finance our innovation. There is a bit more newness in makeup. Makeup is where people like to play, so they will buy the latest lipstick when the effect they want is shiny, and then six months later, everything is about matte lip color. You need to follow the pace but also build cash cows.
When you became CEO in September 2020, you were the fifth in five years and had to manage through the pandemic, too. How did you go about reassuring the troops, helping them shake the sense of any crisis?
One of the first things I did was have a town hall with all employees. I did not promise them anything. What I did was talk to them about beauty. I wanted to show them that I know this industry and the rules to succeed while explaining how much brands and products need to be distinct because we live in an ocean of sameness. I explained how passionate I am about beauty. The feedback was incredible because this was the first time the CEO spoke to them not about the P&L, what we need to do next week, next quarter, and so on, but about a vision, a passion, and how intuition is essential in our business.
You were also the first Coty CEO in a long time to come from within the beauty industry rather than CPG [consumer packaged goods]. How did that background help?
When you are passionate about beauty and understand beauty, you can see how tiny the distance between success and failure is, and this is a level of nuance that many people from outside the industry don’t see. What’s also helped me a lot since I started 20 or 30 years ago is I go to the tiniest details, and our business is about details. I am like a camera that observes people around me.
One of your big goals is to make Coty a bigger player in China, like Estée Lauder and L’Oréal. Do you worry that U.S.-China tensions could affect that?
For everyone in this industry, China is clearly going to become one of, if not the biggest, beauty markets in the world. It’s a nation of beauty experts. You don’t have consumers in front of you; you have experts. And that pushes up the ante in terms of quality, transparency, and scientific efficiency. We are still small in China, where we get only 4% of our net revenues. There is an upside if we continue to grow there, and our fragrance category is booming in China. And if there are tensions, the downside is fairly limited.
You studied environmental engineering at university with a focus on water. How does that training still affect how you do your work?
It was hugely useful when I was at L’Oréal, but also today. I collaborate well with research and development people because they know I am an R&D person. In this company, we own some of the most interesting intellectual property in the area of [skin] health protection, which will be very important in a world that’s going to be sunnier and warmer.
You are one of a few transgender CEOs. How do we get more transgender people into C-suites?
I love saying to people, “Judge me on what I do rather than who I am.” So give a chance to anyone with ideas, passion, and willingness to create something new. That’s the only thing people should look at because the rest is private life. Understanding the left and right brains and how males and females think is also helpful in how I’ve been creating some of the most successful products worldwide.
But if some people aren’t open to who you are, they might not take the time to look at what you do. I suppose, though, that success is the best revenge.
Everyone loves success.
Get to know Nabi:
She was born in Algeria with the name Youcef (her middle initial “Y” refers to that name) and reared and educated in France.
Nabi founded the vegan luxury skin-care brand Orveda in 2018, which Coty bought in 2021 after she became CEO.
Nabi rose from sales representative to president of L’Oréal between 1993 and 2013. She’s credited with revitalizing Lancôme during her five years leading the brand.