男士内衣告别石器时代

    Tommy John不是唯一一家有这种雄心壮志的企业。内衣巨头Jockey也推出了全新“Stay Cool”产品线，以丹佛野马队四分卫蒂姆•提博为代言人，旨在改变内衣行业的游戏规则。

    “男人们已开始重视内衣功能性上的优点，”Jockey首席营销官德斯汀•柯恩说。该公司的“Stay Cool”系列内衣与美国航空航天局（NASA）宇航员身穿的航天服一样，强调透气性能。他说：“我觉得男士们对贴身衣物的重视程度正在逐步追赶女性。女士们很关心服饰，总是希望贴身衣物让她们最漂亮。现在，男人也开始重视这个问题了。”

    柯恩称，提博是该系列产品的理想代言人，因为他同时迎合了男性和女性的偏好。“提博是个真诚可信的运动员，这使他深得男士欣赏，而女士们则喜欢他的个性和英俊外表。”考虑到Jockey已经有了庞大的顾客基础，如果弃旧换新模式早日衰落，它对该公司来说肯定不是坏事。

    消费市场研究公司NPD Group首席行业分析师马歇尔•科恩指出，最近几年来，男士时尚行业总体上发生了了显著变化。“过去两年来，男人们越来越注重时尚，比上世纪70年代以来的几十年来都要重视。”

    科恩称，如今男士服饰往往为某种专门用途而设计。“商家会告诉男性消费者，当你从事某种活动的时候，就需要这种风格、这种产品。”他还援引Under Armour品牌为例，称后者成功地避免了陷入传统内衣商业模式的窠臼。

    至于Tommy John这样的小公司如何与Jockey等内衣巨头竞争，科恩认为，市场容得下两类公司共存。“市场上存在两个机会之窗。强调独特和个性，瞄准高端消费者；或者把独特与个性做到极致，使消费者能认识并喜爱你的品牌。”

    难道男士内衣行业也将诞生一个维多利亚的秘密（Victor's Secret）？科恩称我们不能期望太高，他强调，尽管男士贴身衣物市场正在增长，但其规模仍只有女士内衣市场的一半。

    可以肯定的是，男士内衣正在走出石器时代，Tommy John这样的小公司不容忽视。“你问我是否觉得富有创新能力的小公司能够影响市场形势？当然可以。”

    译者：小宇

    Tommy John is not alone in its quest. Industry giant Jockey is also changing their underwear game with a new "Stay Cool" line featuring Denver Broncos quarterback Tim Tebow as its spokesman.

    "Guys are starting to look for functional benefits in underwear," says Jockey Chief Marketing Officer Dustin Cohn. The company's "staycool" line has some of the same breathable features NASA astronauts enjoy in their space suits. "I think guys are catching up to women in intimates. Women are thoughtful about their clothes and what intimates make them look best. Men are becoming thoughtful, too."

    Cohn says Tebow was an ideal face for its new line, arguing that he appeals to both men and women. "[Tebow] is an authentic and honest athlete, appealing to the guys. The women like his personality and good looks." With its large consumer base, Jockey certainly wouldn't mind seeing the replenishment model fade.

    In recent years, men's fashion in general has undergone a significant shift, says Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at consumer market research firm The NPD Group. "Over the past two years, men have become more concerned with fashion than they have been in several decades -- since the '70s."

    Today, Cohen says, men's products are being designed for specific applications. "Male consumers are being told this is the style and this is the product you need for X activity." Cohen cites Under Armour (UA) as a good example of a brand that has done a good job avoiding the typical undergarment business model.

    As for smaller companies like Tommy John versus behemoths like Jockey, Cohen argues that there's room for both. "There are two windows of opportunity in the market. Be unique and different and market to a higher-end customer. Or be so unique and different that consumer's recognize and want your brand."

    So is a Victor's Secret in the offing? Cohen says we shouldn't hold our breath, adding that the men's intimates market, while growing, is still half the size of the women's market.

    To be sure, men's underwear is leaving its Stone Age. And small companies like Tommy John should not be taken lightly. "Do I think a small player with a lot of innovation could make an impact on the market? Yes."