机芯供应危机引发瑞士手表业地震

    一些大型制表商已经变得警觉起来。

    隶属于法国奢侈品巨头路易威登集团( LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton)的豪雅手表公司(Tag Heuer)正在瑞士汝拉州金佛内区建设一家零部件生产厂。此外，它也开始使用日本精工株式会社(Seiko,瑞士制表商的竞争对手之一)生产的零部件。

    据圣人集团副总裁法林透露，为了构建自己的零部件生产厂，拥有波美名士(Baume et Mercier)、卡地亚(Cartier)和伯爵(Piaget)等品牌的瑞士奢侈品巨头历峰集团(Richemont Group)，正在投入数额不菲的研发资金。此外，该公司近些年来一直在收购小型零部件供应商。

    “历峰集团的手表机芯基本上实现了自给自足，”该公司一位发言人表示。“斯沃琪集团是我们公司的重要商业伙伴，我们的关系非常良好。我们并不认为，近期宣布的这项裁定将对历峰集团的业务产生任何影响。”

    与此同时，Delance公司的掌门人鲁弗则忧心如焚。“小公司将很难生存下去，”她说。“这样的前景非常糟糕，因为这些公司恰恰是瑞士手表的创意灵感之源。”（财富中文网）

    译者：叶寒     

    Some large watchmakers have paid attention.

    Tag Heuer, part of French luxury group LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, is building a parts plant in Chevenez. It has also begun using parts from Seiko, a Japanese rival to Swiss makers.

    Richemont Group, a giant Swiss luxury conglomerate with brands like Baume et Mercier, Cartier, and Piaget, is pouring money into research and development to create its own parts-manufacturing plants and has been buying up tiny parts suppliers in recent years, Farin said.

    "Richemont is largely self-sufficient in terms of watch movements," a company spokesman said. "The Group enjoys an excellent relationship with Swatch, which is an important business partner. We do not anticipate that the recently announced ruling will have any impact on Richemont's businesses."

    Delance's Rufer, meanwhile, is worried. "The small companies will find it very difficult to survive," she said. "That is very bad because the creativity is in their hands."