丝巾，权力女性新标配？

    美国设计师维拉设计的丝巾为文字装饰增添了更多变化，她在艳丽的黄色背景中，印上了各国报纸的标题，并保留了各自独特的字体。

    有些品牌与最新款式的丝巾有着特殊的联系。以皮具著称的菲拉格慕、Fendi和Gucci等品牌，现在也生产令人垂涎的丝巾。

    不过在声誉与优雅方面，爱马仕可谓代表了丝巾文化的巅峰。当然，这也得益于该公司在其他时尚领域享有的良好口碑。爱马仕成立于1837年，最初是一家马术用品供应商，1937年开始生产 carrés丝巾。

    爱马仕对独特性的专注，培养了近乎狂热的客户忠诚度，更恰当的说，许多客户应该被称为“收藏家”。限制每一季供应的商品数量，保持了爱马仕的神秘性。公司对工艺的坚持，为其声誉和高价格提供了可靠的理由；让爱马仕引以为豪的是，每一款设计采用的颜色种类，手工印花工艺和丝绸品质，使每一件作品都堪称工艺美术精品。创建于1923年的美国配饰公司Echo，虽未达到爱马仕的高度，也拥有一批忠实的拥趸。该公司在上世纪70年代推出的广告活动《有趣女人的回声》令人记忆深刻，准确指出了丝巾的本质。

    在当代时尚界，丝巾依旧发挥着与亚麻细布三角形披肩和佩斯利细毛披巾同样的作用；它们都代表了佩戴者的鉴赏力与高雅。

    社会学家、形象顾问安娜•阿克巴里将“配戴一条丝巾”列为“提升形象的5种简单方式”的首位，这并不让人诧异。在她看来，丝巾能够迅速提高个人形象，增加个性。

    本文作者Nancy Deihl为纽约大学服装研究系高级教师兼主任。（财富中文网）

    译者：刘进龙/汪皓

    审校：任文科

    A scarf by the American designer Vera offers another variation on lettering as ornament, presenting the titles of international newspapers, each in its distinctive typeface, on a vivid yellow background.

    Certain labels are particularly associated with high style in scarves. Ferragamo, Fendi and Gucci – all originally esteemed leather goods houses – now produce desirable scarves.

    But for prestige and polish, Hermès represents the pinnacle of scarf culture. Several aspects of its business have contributed to the company’s reputation. Founded in 1837 as a supplier of equestrian supplies, Hermès began offering scarves, called carrés, in 1937.

    Their focus on exclusivity has encouraged an almost fetishistic loyalty among customers, many of whom could more properly be termed “collectors.” Limiting the number of designs they offer each season has maintained Hermès’ mystique. The company’s focus on craftsmanship helps justify their reputation and high prices; Hermès takes pride in the impressive number of colors in each design, the hand-printing process and the fineness of their silk, positioning their output as artisanal creations. While not at the level of Hermès, the American accessories companyEcho, founded in 1923, also has a loyal following. The firm pinpointed the essence of the scarf with their memorable ad campaign “The Echo of an Interesting Woman,” introduced in the 1970s.

    In contemporary fashion, scarves continue to serve the same functions as those earlier fine linen fichus and paisley shawls; they denote connoisseurship and sophistication.

    It’s no surprise, then, that sociologist and image consultant Anna Akbari makes “Put on a scarf” the first entry on her current list of “5 Simple Ways To Hack Your Image,” recognizing their potential for instant uplift and an infusion of individuality.

    Nancy Deihl is Master Teacher and Director of Costume Studies at New York University.