在流动餐厅里逛米兰，体验不一般

当你到一个陌生的城市旅游的时候，漫无目的地在街头走来走去，仍然是感受城市脉搏的一种理想方式。如果是跟着旅游团走，虽然有时难免感到单调无趣，却也是一次性搞定城市热门景点的好办法。除此之外，还有一些有创意的旅游方式也非常值得尝试。比如说，你是否想象过，你在欣赏米兰的斯福尔扎古堡的景色的同时，面前还摆着一盘正宗的番茄意面，手上还端着一杯干得恰到好处的意大利阿布鲁佐干红？有了ATMosfera，这一切将不再只是想象。

从外表看去，ATMosfera的观光电车跟其他那些整天在米兰市里穿梭的有轨电车并无不同——轮子下面是铁轨，车子头顶是电线，这种有轨电车是当地人最常用的交通工具。而车子里面则是另外一幅场景——无论是形式上还是功能上，它已经完全被改造成了一个移动餐厅（目前米兰已经有两个这样的移动餐厅了）。

“该项目脱胎于Azienda Trasporti Milanesi公司（简称ATM）的一个内部项目。”ATM公司酒吧与餐厅业务商务经理塞萨尔·扎农塞利表示：“除了传统的公共交通之外，我们还在寻求产品线的多元化。我们想为整个社会提供一些东西，这只是其中的一部分，同时我们还有共享单车、共享汽车等项目。”这项服务利用了米兰现有的有轨电车系统，沿着一条预先设定的路线，能经过城市的大部分区域。

Sure, aimless walks around a new city while traveling remain ideal ways to tune into the pulse of a town. And organized tours, albeit at times monotonous and long, are indeed efficient methods of tackling an area’s top attractions. But there is something to be said about alternative, creative modes of sightseeing when exploring a new city. Have you ever imagined, for example, admiring Milan’s Castello Sforzesco, a former castle-turned-museum, while simultaneously indulging in a perfectly prepared plate of pasta pomodoro and sipping on a cup of just-dry-enough red wine from Italy’s Abruzzo region? Well, you can actually do that while in town, courtesy of ATMosfera.

From the outside, ATMosfera tram cars look just like the ones traversing Milan all day long: bounded by rails on the ground and overhead wires, the trolley-like machines are popular modes of transportation used by locals. A peek inside these reupholstered and re-outfitted cars paints a different picture: the trams (there are now two in Milan) have effectively been converted in both form and function into itinerant restaurants.

“The project was born within Azienda Trasporti Milanesi (ATM),” says Cesare Zanoncelli, the commercial manager of the business, bar and restaurant line at ATM, the city's public transport company. “We were looking to diversify our offerings and go beyond public transport. We wanted to offer something to society as a whole. This was part of it: we also had bike sharing and car sharing programs.” The service makes use of the public tramway system already set up in Milan, following a pre-established route navigating a majority of the city.

虽然这是意大利和欧洲的第一家流动餐厅（第一辆车在2005年投入运营，第二辆车于2006年启动），但是该项目的创意却是来自澳大利亚的墨尔本。墨尔本的“殖民地有轨电车餐厅”包含三辆改装过的老式有轨电车，于1982年11月在墨尔本投入运营。出于安全考虑，它在2018年10月被关闭了。不过墨尔本仍计划将这种用餐体验保留下来，只不过重新开张后，电车可能会停在一个固定的地方不再开动。

由于一辆流动餐车上只有24个座位，想预留座位的旅客，必须至少提前40天预订。旅客可以选择吃正餐或是早午餐（早午餐只在周六、日两天提供），菜单也是基本固定的（鱼、肉、素食等）。此外，旅客还可以注明自己对哪些食材过敏或者不耐受，然后选择自己想喝的酒（每两人限一瓶，早午餐不含酒水）。然后旅客只需在预订的时间登车即可。该餐车全程约两个半小时，起点是米兰的卡斯特罗广场，之后你便可尽情享受这次米兰美食之旅了。

Although the first itinerant restaurant of its kind in Italy and Europe (the first car was set in motion back in 2005, the second in 2006) as a whole, the project was originally thought up in Melbourne, Australia. The Colonial Tramcar Restaurant project consisted of three converted vintage W class trams in Melbourne that began operating in November of 1982. Citing safety concerns, the system was shut down in October 2018, but plans to operate the eateries within the trolleys as “stationary dining experiences” are under way.

The idea is simple: guests, who must reserve one of the 24 seats per car up to 40 days in advance, choose between dinner and brunch (only available on Saturdays and Sundays) service, select a pre-fixe menu (fish, meat, vegetarian), note allergies or intolerances, pick the kind of wine bottle they’d like to enjoy (one for every two people, no bottle included in brunch reservations), and show up at the designated time to enjoy an almost two-and-a-half-hour-long seated tour of the city that begins in Piazza Castello and ends up becoming a journey of the culinary kind as well.

两辆流动餐厅都有一个保留下来的售票室，售票室的旁边是厨房，里面有电磁炉、烤箱和两个冰箱等厨具，厨师会在这里烹饪一部分食物，然后由服务员端上餐桌。ATM与一家餐饮公司有合作，这家餐饮公司会根据预先设定好的菜单（每张菜单有四道菜）提前准备部分菜品。而菜单则会根据季节有所调整。

车上是没有导游的，这辆流动餐厅也只是按预先设定的线路老老实实地走。路线可以分为两个部分，第一段基本是绕着米兰市北部走，然后车子会停上10分钟，让烟民们下车抽根烟。第二部分则是在米兰市的南边穿行，期间还会经过米兰著名的纳维利区。

Each one of the two trolleys boasts a preserved conductors’ cabin alongside a kitchen outfitted with an induction plate, an oven and two refrigerators, where a chef cooks part of the food that’s then served by the waiter on board. The company works with a catering business that prepares part of the fare in a warehouse, based on a pre-established set of menus—four courses each—that change seasonally.

What you won’t find on board, though, is a guide, the “touring” aspect of the experience solely relegated to the actual route taken by the tram: the first part of the ride circulates Northern Milan while the second, after a ten-minute “cigarette break,” navigates the Southern portion of the city, including the famous Navigli district.

扎农塞利表示：“这个项目本来就是想让游客吃一顿温馨浪漫的饭，它的目标客户主要是情侣和小团体，而不是普通游客。如果我们在车上安排一位导游，旅游的感觉就太浓厚了，而我们想重点关注浪漫的部分。”不过扎农塞利也承认，目前该流动餐厅的大多数食客都是游客。该流动餐车全年365天无休，但由于它非常受欢迎，ATM公司正在考虑增加第三辆电车，以提高接待能力。

说到浪漫这个话题，当被问到流动餐厅投入运营14年来，餐厅里发生过哪些令人难忘的浪漫故事时，扎农塞利很快记起了各种各样的求婚场景。“我们的电车上甚至举办过真正的婚礼！至于求婚，经常是电车一到终点，灯光暗下来，就有人掏出戒指，问出了那个问题。直到现在，我们还没见到有人拒绝过！”（财富中文网）

译者:朴成奎

“The project was born as an intimate dinner,” Zanoncelli explains. “The structure was built with couples and small groups in mind, we weren’t necessarily thinking of tourists. If we were to put a tour guide on board, the essence of the experience would have been too tourist-focused, and we wanted to focus on the romantic part.” Nonetheless, Zanoncelli acknowledges that ATMosfera, which operates 365 days a year, is mostly boarded by travelers. Given the service’s popularity, ATM is looking into expanding capacity by adding a third tram to the roster.

Speaking of romance: when prodded about standout, memorable occurrences that took place on the tram in its 14-year history, Zanoncelli is quick to remember various marriage proposals. “There are also actual weddings that took place on board!” he says. “As for the proposals, once the tour ends, the lights are dimmed, and the question is asked. Until now, we haven’t yet witnessed a turndown!”