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蔻驰CEO:中国的部分门店要向更好的地段转移

蔻驰CEO:中国的部分门店要向更好的地段转移

Phil Wahba 2014年06月25日
蔻驰CEO维克多•路易斯接受《财富》杂志专访时说,为了维持蔻驰在中国市场的积极态势,必须关停一些客流量不理想的门店,把它们转移到更好的地段。

    你们正在大举调整的电子商务业务在去购物中心化的战略转变中扮演什么角色?

    在一定程度上,这并不是蔻驰特有的问题。受电子商务增长影响,美国各大购物中心的客流减少了。当然,考虑到许多消费者通常会在这些小店面购物,其中的一个商机在于我们如何能通过我们的网站为他们服务。

    你说你们将巩固在北美百货大楼内的蔻驰门店。你们具体会采取什么做法?背后的原因是什么?

    为弥补部分门店关张带来的损失,我们正在进行针对性的投资。其中,美国各大百货公司就占有一席之地。而在我们相中的百货大楼内,我们希望提升蔻驰门店的形象。

    我们将在众多蔻驰门店内引进蔻驰聘请的销售专员,确保高水准的客户服务。明年,我们会在50家百货大楼门店内部署内部蔻驰员工。再过两年,这个数字将增加至150家。(目前为止,蔻驰百货大楼门店的销售人员均由百货公司聘用。)

    蔻驰刚刚宣布了在纽约选址开设一家大型旗舰店的计划。为什么纽约旗舰店计划这么重要?

    纽约旗舰店将成为蔻驰全球的正中心,反映出我们品牌扎根于这座城市。纽约不仅是蔻驰的诞生地,也是它最大的灵感源泉。这对我们来说是一个非常重要的项目,目前选址工作还在全力进行中。

    在欧洲众多核心市场,历史更悠久的众多高端奢侈品品牌林立,而你们的业务规模仍然较小。蔻驰的纽约历史传承在你们的欧洲扩张计划中将发挥什么作用?

    我们凭借两点进军欧洲市场:“没错,作为美国领先的皮革制品公司,我们拥有手工艺历史和传承,但我们同时也是时尚和生活方式的潮流引领者,是如今纽约时尚风格的风向标。”

    维佛斯一头扎进蔻驰的历史中,为他的首套蔻驰系列作品带来了灵感。专注于蔻驰的历史能发挥什么作用?

    虽然有一代人对我们的历史了然于心,但年轻一代消费者并不十分了解早年的蔻驰。我认为我们需要做、而且正在尝试做的就是:在未来的12-18个月内,确保消费者了解我们的内核,也就是我们的DNA。了解我们的根,我们是谁。

    你们正在关闭中国的一些店面,代之以新设的店面。你们为什么愿意在这个日益重要的市场去冒增长放缓的风险?

    中国市场日新月异,5年前很适合我们的大商场和大百货公司如今可能已经不再是最佳的选择。我们正在以积极的攻势确保获得最佳的店址。这就需要我们做出艰难的决定,也就是关闭一部分门店,把它们转移到更好的地段。(财富中文网)

    译者:Peter

    How does your e-commerce, which you are overhauling currently, play into this shift away from malls?

    Part of this is not Coach-specific. Part of what we are seeing in general is reduced traffic to the American shopping mall, driven by an increase in e-commerce. Certainly, with many of the consumers that would normally be shopping in these smaller locations, one of the opportunities is going to be how we can engage with them via our web site.”

    You say Coach will enhance its locations inside North American department stores. How and why will you do that?

    We are making investments targeted at making up for the store closings. There is a place for the American department store, and in those that we choose to be in, we want to look good.

    In many of the locations, we’re going to be bringing Coach-funded sales specialists who will be able to ensure there is a level of customer service. Coach will have its own staff at 50 shops inside a department store next year, and triple that in another 2 years. [Until now, such sales staff were employed by the department store.]

    Coach announced today that it is looking for a spot to have a big New York City flagship—why is this important?

    [It] would be the epicenter of Coach globally, a reflection of our total brand here, in the city where we were born, in the city that is our number-one inspiration. That is a very important project for us, and that search continues.

    How does your New York heritage play into your expansion plans in Europe, where you remain a small player in many key markets and where many upscale and luxury brands are much older and better established?

    We have to go in there with a combination of ‘yes, we have a history and heritage of craftsmanship as the leading U.S. house of leather, but we are also a fashion and lifestyle resource that is today indicative of the New York fashion style.’

    Vevers has dived into Coach’s archives, an approach that has informed his first collection for Coach. How does the focus on Coach’s history help you?

    There is a generation of consumers who don’t know Coach of earlier years and others who do, and I think what we need to do, and are trying to do, over the next 12-18 months, is ensure that consumers are aware of our core, what is our DNA, who are our roots, who we are.

    You are closing some locations in China, and replacing them with others. Why are you willing to run the risk of slowing your growth in a market that is increasingly important to you?

    Things in China move so rapidly so great malls, great department stores that were the right place to be 5 years ago, may no longer be that place. We’re taking an aggressive stance in ensuring we are in the right locations by making the tough decision to close some stores and move them to better locations.

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