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收买情报头子监视拍片讽刺自己的导演?迪奥老板被告上法庭

Prarthana Prakash
2024-12-16

这起案件让这位法国首富陷入了极为难堪的境地。

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贝尔纳・阿尔诺在1987 年创办了路威酩轩集团。图片来源:ERIC PIERMONT—AFP/Getty Images

早在 1987 年创办路威酩轩集团(LVMH)之前,贝尔纳・阿尔诺就已经是一位有名的交易大师了。在此前三年,阿尔诺以象征性的1 法郎的价格收购了迪奥的母公司,也就是当时已经濒临破产的博萨克公司。

即便在当时,迪奥也是最有名的奢侈品品牌之一。不过它的所有者——法国“棉花大王”马塞尔・博萨克深陷财务危机,他的纺织帝国已经摇摇欲坠,不得不选择断尾求生。

有了迪奥作为基础,阿尔诺继续进军奢侈品产业,并且在后续创办路威酩轩的过程中频繁出手交易。路威酩轩集团是路易威登和酩悦轩尼诗两家公司合并的结果。阿尔诺于是成了迪奥的董事长兼首席执行官,并使迪奥成了LVMH旗下的控股公司。

在此之后,阿尔诺一边打造自己商业帝国,一边挤压原博萨克公司的势力。他将首先是挤走了原路易威登的总裁,然后解聘了原博萨克公司 9000多名员工,同时剥离了博萨克公司的大量资产,这些举措也给他带来了“终结者”的绰号。此外,他还收购了一系列品牌,包括纪梵希、罗意威和芬迪等等。

现如今,路威酩轩集团的市值已达到 3190 亿欧元(约合 3360 亿美元),旗下拥有 75 个品牌,阿尔诺本人也凭借 1800 亿美元的净资产成为欧洲首富。当然,树大招风,作为这样一个庞大商业帝国的缔造者,他也经常会遭遇各种各样的批评。

阿尔诺 2018 年接受CNBC采访时曾表示:“我记得有人跟我说,把这么多品牌整合到一起没什么意义,但它却成功了,而且是世所公认的成功。”

“而且在过去10 年里,每个竞争对手都在试图模仿我们,这对我们来说是一件值得欣慰的事。我认为他们在这方尚未成功,但他们一直在尝试。”

当然,虽然阿尔诺通过收购众多奢侈品品牌,成功打造了自己的商业帝国,但他也并非没有经历过失败。特别是他曾尝试收购竞争对手爱马仕。长期以来,爱马仕一直是奢侈品消费者心目中的顶流。

2016 年,一部法国讽刺纪录片《谢谢老板》将阿尔诺的冷酷无情展示在了世人面前,这部影片后来甚至屡屡斩获大奖。这的故事围绕着法国北部的一对夫妇展开,夫妻二人原本在路威酩轩一家分包公司工作,但因为LVMH在波兰建了一家新工厂,导致夫妻二人双双失业。接着,他们便开始找阿尔诺寻仇。

这部影片通过一个“平民战恶龙”式的故事,深刻触及了全球化和贫富差距等突出矛盾,引起了法国民众的共鸣。在影片上映后,本片的制作人、左翼议员弗朗索瓦・吕芬在接受法国 24 电视台采访时表示,这部影片对观众有着一种 “解放般的影响”。

阿尔诺对这部纪录片非常不满,据称,他甚至指派法国国内安全总局前负责贝尔纳・斯夸尔西尼去监视吕芬及其创办的《Fakir》杂志。

吕芬于2019 年提起诉讼,声称路威酩轩集团在他拍摄该片期间重金收买了斯夸尔西尼。此案涉嫌利用影响力受贿和滥用公共资金等指控,目前还在法庭审理阶段,阿尔诺上个月也作为案件当事人出庭了。

这起案件让这位法国首富陷入了极为难堪的境地。不过他否认与此事有牵连。

75岁的阿尔诺在法庭上表示:“我对此事绝对是不知情的。”

当他在法庭上被问到 2007 年法国北部的一家纺织厂被关闭一事时,阿尔诺打断了吕芬的律师的质问。“……你说的只是一百来个工作岗位的事。从那时到现在,我创造了多少工作岗位?我之前说过的……19 万个!你觉得这够不够?对吕芬先生来说够不够?还是我们得继续纠缠这种蠢问题?”

阿尔诺不喜欢别人对他提反对意见,这一点并非什么秘密。今年早些时候,他向路威酩轩集团的员工发送了一份备忘录,禁止他们与某些法国媒体机构交流,并警告道,如果员工违反这项规定,将会面临严重后果。

阿尔诺和吕芬都想让对方为自己的行为付出代价——一个骂对方是经营奢侈品帝国的冷酷血腥资本家,一个骂对方拍片子讽刺自己是别有用心,而且“非常搞笑”。

路威酩轩集团的代表并未及时回复《财富》的置评请求。(财富中文网)

译者:朴成奎

早在 1987 年创办路威酩轩集团(LVMH)之前,贝尔纳・阿尔诺就已经是一位有名的交易大师了。在此前三年,阿尔诺以象征性的1 法郎的价格收购了迪奥的母公司,也就是当时已经濒临破产的博萨克公司。

即便在当时,迪奥也是最有名的奢侈品品牌之一。不过它的所有者——法国“棉花大王”马塞尔・博萨克深陷财务危机,他的纺织帝国已经摇摇欲坠,不得不选择断尾求生。

有了迪奥作为基础,阿尔诺继续进军奢侈品产业,并且在后续创办路威酩轩的过程中频繁出手交易。路威酩轩集团是路易威登和酩悦轩尼诗两家公司合并的结果。阿尔诺于是成了迪奥的董事长兼首席执行官,并使迪奥成了LVMH旗下的控股公司。

在此之后,阿尔诺一边打造自己商业帝国,一边挤压原博萨克公司的势力。他将首先是挤走了原路易威登的总裁,然后解聘了原博萨克公司 9000多名员工,同时剥离了博萨克公司的大量资产,这些举措也给他带来了“终结者”的绰号。此外,他还收购了一系列品牌,包括纪梵希、罗意威和芬迪等等。

现如今,路威酩轩集团的市值已达到 3190 亿欧元(约合 3360 亿美元),旗下拥有 75 个品牌,阿尔诺本人也凭借 1800 亿美元的净资产成为欧洲首富。当然,树大招风,作为这样一个庞大商业帝国的缔造者,他也经常会遭遇各种各样的批评。

阿尔诺 2018 年接受CNBC采访时曾表示:“我记得有人跟我说,把这么多品牌整合到一起没什么意义,但它却成功了,而且是世所公认的成功。”

“而且在过去10 年里,每个竞争对手都在试图模仿我们,这对我们来说是一件值得欣慰的事。我认为他们在这方尚未成功,但他们一直在尝试。”

当然,虽然阿尔诺通过收购众多奢侈品品牌,成功打造了自己的商业帝国,但他也并非没有经历过失败。特别是他曾尝试收购竞争对手爱马仕。长期以来,爱马仕一直是奢侈品消费者心目中的顶流。

2016 年,一部法国讽刺纪录片《谢谢老板》将阿尔诺的冷酷无情展示在了世人面前,这部影片后来甚至屡屡斩获大奖。这的故事围绕着法国北部的一对夫妇展开,夫妻二人原本在路威酩轩一家分包公司工作,但因为LVMH在波兰建了一家新工厂,导致夫妻二人双双失业。接着,他们便开始找阿尔诺寻仇。

这部影片通过一个“平民战恶龙”式的故事,深刻触及了全球化和贫富差距等突出矛盾,引起了法国民众的共鸣。在影片上映后,本片的制作人、左翼议员弗朗索瓦・吕芬在接受法国 24 电视台采访时表示,这部影片对观众有着一种 “解放般的影响”。

阿尔诺对这部纪录片非常不满,据称,他甚至指派法国国内安全总局前负责贝尔纳・斯夸尔西尼去监视吕芬及其创办的《Fakir》杂志。

吕芬于2019 年提起诉讼,声称路威酩轩集团在他拍摄该片期间重金收买了斯夸尔西尼。此案涉嫌利用影响力受贿和滥用公共资金等指控,目前还在法庭审理阶段,阿尔诺上个月也作为案件当事人出庭了。

这起案件让这位法国首富陷入了极为难堪的境地。不过他否认与此事有牵连。

75岁的阿尔诺在法庭上表示:“我对此事绝对是不知情的。”

当他在法庭上被问到 2007 年法国北部的一家纺织厂被关闭一事时,阿尔诺打断了吕芬的律师的质问。“……你说的只是一百来个工作岗位的事。从那时到现在,我创造了多少工作岗位?我之前说过的……19 万个!你觉得这够不够?对吕芬先生来说够不够?还是我们得继续纠缠这种蠢问题?”

阿尔诺不喜欢别人对他提反对意见,这一点并非什么秘密。今年早些时候,他向路威酩轩集团的员工发送了一份备忘录,禁止他们与某些法国媒体机构交流,并警告道,如果员工违反这项规定,将会面临严重后果。

阿尔诺和吕芬都想让对方为自己的行为付出代价——一个骂对方是经营奢侈品帝国的冷酷血腥资本家,一个骂对方拍片子讽刺自己是别有用心,而且“非常搞笑”。

路威酩轩集团的代表并未及时回复《财富》的置评请求。(财富中文网)

译者:朴成奎

Bernard Arnault’s reputation as a master dealmaker predates the founding of LVMH, the luxury conglomerate he runs, in 1987. Three years before that, the French businessman bought Christian Dior’s then-parent, Boussac, for a meager one franc as it was trending toward bankruptcy.

At the time, Dior was still among the most prestigious luxury labels as it symbolized opulence. However, the owner, Marcel Boussac, who was called France’s “cotton king,” began to lose much of his textile empire under financial pressure.

With Dior as the foundation, Arnault doubled down on the deal streak when he subsequently established LVMH, which was born out of the merger of Louis Vuitton and Moët Hennessy. He became Dior’s chair and CEO and made it LVMH’s holding company.

The young entrepreneur left no stone unturned to build his fortune after that. He pushed Louis Vuitton’s president from his family company, fired some 9,000 people who worked at Boussac, and shed much of Boussac’s assets, earning him the moniker “the Terminator.” He also acquired a string of Maisons (or brands), including Givenchy, Loewe, and Fendi.

Today, LVMH has a market cap of €319 billion ($336 billion), houses 75 Maisons, and has made Arnault Europe’s wealthiest person with a net worth of $180 billion. He occasionally battled with criticism over building a company that was so big it couldn’t be touched.

“I remember people telling me it doesn’t make sense to put together so many brands. And it was a success. It is a recognized success,” Arnault told CNBC in 2018.

“And for the last 10 years now, every competitor is trying to imitate, which is very rewarding for us. I think they are not successful, but they try.”

While the luxury CEO has established his empire by snapping up numerous fashion and lifestyle companies, he’s had a few failures, too. None were more high profile than his attempted purchase of rival Hermès, which has long been a North Star for luxury buyers.

His ruthless ways became the center of attention in 2016 with a French satirical documentary that became an award-winning smash hit in no time. The story of Merci Patron! (meaning “Thanks Boss!”) focuses on a couple in northern France who are laid off when their jobs at an LVMH subcontractor are lost to a new factory in Poland. They then go after Arnault for revenge.

The film touched on globalization, inequality, and a David-versus-Goliath-like struggle between workers and employers, which resonated with French people. François Ruffin, the filmmaker and a left-wing lawmaker, told France 24 upon the film’s release that it had a “liberating effect” on those who watched it.

Arnault was displeased with the documentary and allegedly assigned Bernard Squarcini, former head of France’s domestic security agency, the task of spying on Ruffin and his journal, Fakir.

Ruffin filed a lawsuit in 2019 claiming LVMH contracted Squarcini while his César Award–winning documentary was being filmed. That case, which includes charges of influence-peddling and misuse of public funds, is now being tried in court—and Arnault appeared in court last month as part of it.

The case has dragged the French billionaire into an unflattering spotlight, although he denied involvement.

“I was absolutely unaware of this,” the 75-year-old Arnault said in court.

When he was asked about the closure of a textile factory in northern France in 2007 in court, Arnault stopped Ruffin’s lawyer, saying: “You’re talking about a hundred or so jobs. Since then and now, I’ve created how many jobs? I said it before … 190,000. Does that work for you? Does that work for Mr. Ruffin? Or do we have to continue with this idiocy?”

It’s no secret that Arnault isn’t a fan of dissenting views. Earlier this year, he sent a memo to LVMH employees banning them from speaking to certain French media outlets, warning them that they’d face serious consequences if they did.

Both Arnault and Ruffin have tried to hold each other accountable for their actions: running a luxury empire in a capitalistic era and making a “rather funny” but adversarial film about a successful business.

Representatives at LVMH didn’t immediately return Fortune’s request for comment.

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